On the hottest summer days, sometimes all you feel like eating is something light and refreshing. Salad certainly matches that description, yet mixtures of leafy greens and other vegetables aren’t necessarily what comes to mind first when you want to satisfy hunger.
That’s why I think Caesar salad makes one of the best choices. The recipe was originally developed almost a century ago in Tijuana, Mexico, just across the border from California, by restaurateur Caesar Cardini, who threw it together one evening from kitchen odds and ends for some hungry partyers. Word quickly spread about how miraculously flavorful and robust it was for a dish so light — the perfect bite to enjoy after a night on the town.
I have long offered my own interpretation of Caesar salad in my restaurants, and it’s so popular that when I try taking it off the menu, many guests insist on ordering it anyway. They like it, I think, because the combination of crisp romaine leaves, Parmesan, crunchy croutons and a creamy dressing of olive oil, egg yolk, garlic, mustard, Worcestershire sauce and anchovies delivers big flavor and great crunch with every bite, filling them up without feeling at all heavy.
Many people ask for the salad as an appetizer. Others request that we top it with a portion of grilled chicken, meat or seafood to make a complete one-dish meal. You can easily do this at home, too, whether you cook the protein on your backyard grill, on an indoor grill pan or under the broiler.
So how, you may wonder, do I manage to stay true to the classic while also making it my way? For one thing, I streamline the dressing’s preparation. In the original, it’s made with a coddled (barely boiled) egg that is beaten with the other dressing ingredients in the salad bowl. Instead, I use a pasteurized egg yolk (you can find pasteurized eggs in well-stocked markets) to ensure it contains no harmful bacteria, and combine it with the other ingredients using an immersion blender that instantaneously produces a perfect emulsion. I then blend the anchovies into the dressing. They are usually used as a garnish, which some diners don’t like. But when blended in smoothly, they add a subtle briny flavor to the dressing that everyone seems to enjoy.
My other change is to the croutons. Instead of using cubes of bread tossed with the salad leaves, I prefer to use thin slices that you can eat as an accompaniment. I even like to top them with a simply seasoned mixture of cherry tomatoes, which adds a bright complement of both flavor and color.
So there you have it: My own take on a very satisfying salad everyone can enjoy throughout the summer.
CLASSIC CAESAR SALAD
Serves 4
Croutons:
1 small French or sourdough baguette, cut diagonally into slices 1/2-inch thick
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
Caesar dressing:
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice, strained
1 pasteurized cage-free egg yolk
1 clove garlic, grated
3 anchovy fillets
1 teaspoon dry mustard powder
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 cup mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon honey
Cherry-tomato garnish:
About 2 dozen cherry tomatoes, cut in halves
Sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or other fresh herbs
Salad:
3 hearts romaine lettuce, leaves separated and chilled
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Hard-boiled egg, sliced in half (optional garnish)
Directions:
First, make the croutons. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Put the slices of bread on a baking sheet. Drizzle lightly but evenly with olive oil, and sprinkle with thyme. Bake until deep golden-brown, 10 to 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the dressing. In a glass measuring cup or bowl, combine the lemon juice, egg yolk, garlic, anchovies, mustard, Worcestershire, salt, pepper, vinegar and oil. With an immersion blender, blend until smooth. Add the honey, and blend briefly again.
For the garnish, in a mixing bowl, combine the tomatoes, a small splash of vinegar and the fresh herbs. Toss well. Set aside.
Put the separated romaine leaves in a large bowl. Add 1/3 cup to 1/2 cup of the Parmesan, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Drizzle with enough of the dressing to coat the leaves lightly. Toss thoroughly.
To serve the salad, arrange the dressed romaine leaves on individual large serving plates. Sprinkle more Parmesan over the salad. Arrange the croutons on the side, and top them with the cherry-tomato mixture. Add hard-boiled egg for an optional garnish. Serve immediately.