Q. I don't have to wear a suit or blazer to work and so I prefer to wear sweaters and light jackets in the fall and spring. In your scale of formality, how do you see the different sweaters? Meaning, in my realty company, where we don't even always wear a tie, which variety of sweater is best for our most businessy days (they are still fairly casual but include customers' visits) and for our least (Fridays when we'll go out for drinks at the end of the day, but I still want to look more professional than an intern)?
A. People tend to think that a business-casual work environment is easy. Not so. In a suit-and-tie setting, your options are narrower, making your choices easier. But when the dress code allows so many possibilities, picking and choosing becomes more difficult. It helps to know which clothes rank higher on the formality hierarchy.
And your Friday example is important, since in the world of business, not every day is 9 to 5. Some days may begin with an 8 a.m. breakfast meeting. Some involve rather formal business lunches with customers. Other days may end with after-work drinks where more deals may be initiated than in three months of office groundwork. And, when you are among the lucky ones, you might even fly away to a sparkling resort for a three-day conference. All of this is business. It just doesn't always require the old concept of conventional business dressing.
Your clothes for these semiformal business situations continue to express your personality and position, even when they are not of the traditional suit-and-tie variety. Knowing what to wear is more complicated. Oddly, the higher you advance up the ladder, the more often these situations arise.
But each time, your main concerns are professionalism, comfort, appropriateness and good looks. Haphazard decisions won't do. Keep in mind that there's no good time for looking bad and no bad time for looking good. Sweater elements to consider are color, cut, pattern and weight.
COLOR -- It is the shade of a color, rather than its name, that determines a sweater's ranking on the formal-to-casual scale. Dark is equated with formality; light/medium tones and brighter colors are less dressy. A light blue or vivid royal blue sweater is more casual (and more fun) than one in navy. And a pink or bright red sweater, rather than a more staid burgundy, is a good choice if you want a less formal look.
CUT -- A V-neck or crew neck pullover is more businesslike than a button-up or zip-front cardigan. Turtlenecks and sweater vests can go either way, depending on color and weight. Boat necks and Henley-type necklines are more weekend dressing than business casual. Rugby shirts and sweatshirts do not qualify as office-wear sweaters.
PATTERN -- Sweater patterns have a hierarchy of their own. This is an area where personal preference comes into play. Solids are safe and dressier; stripes add interest; argyles and Fair Isles are preppy; geometrics are sophisticated; ribbed and cable-stitched designs are sporty.
WEIGHT/TEXTURE -- This determines more than mere warmth and comfort. Lightweights and smooth textures of fine cotton, merino wool, and cashmere are dressier than the bulky textures in heavy knits. Chunky striped V-neck tennis sweaters and Nordic reindeer-patterned ski sweaters send a different (nonbusiness) vibe than smoother, dressier textures.
I hope you have noticed that sweater dressing (especially for work) has nothing to do with sloppy dressing. If you prefer to wear sweaters, do it well; no last-minute attempts at tossing together a cool get-up. Let the sweaters you choose project a positive message about you, an image of "He's right on all occasions."
Send men's fashion queries to Male Call:
lois.fenton@prodigy.net
High Profile on 11/27/2016