RESTAURANT REVIEW: CM Smoke's meat a cut above

A portion of a Meat Sampler at CM Smoke Artisan BBQ, served here with macaroni and cheese and smoked barbecue beans, includes pulled pork, ribs and pickles.
A portion of a Meat Sampler at CM Smoke Artisan BBQ, served here with macaroni and cheese and smoked barbecue beans, includes pulled pork, ribs and pickles.

CM Smoke Artisan BBQ, a mom-and-pop restaurant in a strip mall on Jacksonville's Main Street, prides itself on lovingly smoking a variety of meats low and slow over a wood-fire pit out back. The house-made dry rubs and four sauces include vinegary, hot and sweet.

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The onion rings at CM Smoke Artisan BBQ in Jacksonville come served in a paper-lined basket.

A Thursday afternoon found our group of four heading to the place early enough to miss rush hour. Parking was easy and plentiful right in front. The exterior is typical of an older strip mall, neither fancy nor decrepit. The large dining area is filled with heavy dark-wood tables and a few barbecue-related items hanging on the grayish-green walls. Pops of red here and there give a brightness to the comfortable place with a relaxing ambience.

CM Smoke Artisan BBQ

Address: 605 W. Main St., Jacksonville

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday

Cuisine: Barbecue

Credit cards: V, M, AE

Alcoholic beverages: Yes, with $5 membership

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Carryout: Yes

(501) 985-6328

The small menu is written on a chalkboard and some of it was a bit hard to read. We asked a lot of questions and two helpful ladies behind the counter -- Lynda and Cathy -- patiently listened and gave guidance. We ordered, fixed our beverages at the drink station and seated ourselves at a table near the front.

First to arrive after a few minutes was an order of beer-battered onion rings ($6.79). They are considered an appetizer, but for the price the order didn't seem substantial. Still, they were fried to a crispy golden brown and had a mild onion flavor that we all liked.

CM Smoke's meals do not come with sides. Regular sides, served in tiny foam containers one might expect to hold dressing or tartar sauce, are $1.89. A large is $2.79 and a pint is $3.99.

One of us ordered the brisket ($8.29) with sides of collard greens and pigtail fries. Although we paid for a small order of greens, they generously arrived in a larger foam container because they were wanting to use them up. We all proclaimed them delicious -- well-seasoned and tender, just like good greens should be. The first-rate thick, curled pigtail fries coated in flavored seasoning were crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside.

Three of us shared a Meat Sampler. I was disappointed sides did not come with it, as it cost $19.95. The sampler comes with four choices of meat: four ribs, a third pound of brisket, two smoked sausages, a half pound of pulled pork or half a smoked chicken; as well as sliced pickles.

The side order choices are slaw, potato salad, smoked barbecue beans, pinto beans, and smoked macaroni and cheese. To go with the sampler we ordered the macaroni, slaw and barbecue beans.

All meats had a nice smoky flavor. The pulled pork was tender and very moist. The dark pink meat on the ribs nearly fell off the bone, although they weren't very meaty. The slightly peppery smoked sausages were cut into thick slices, making them easier to eat. The brisket did not deliver. It had a smoky flavor and a nice pink ring around the outside of each slice but it was a bit dry.

The beans were nicely balanced -- a little smoky, spicy and sweet. The macaroni, which was actually penne pasta, could have used a bit more cheese. While it had a hint of smoke, it was dry and the cheese was stringy. The slaw was standard -- not super creamy but crisp.

The menu includes a selection of smoked meat plates, sandwiches, family packs and a few special items that have limited availability like tamales ($8.99), a smoked meatloaf sandwich ($7) and a deep-fried beef hot dog ($5).

We shared a couple of desserts: a slice of pecan pie ($3) and banana pudding ($3.79). We had noticed the container of the meringue-covered pudding sitting on the counter and it looked delicious, like the version my daddy used to make. I was a bit befuddled when it came to our table as a rather runny pudding with bits of banana in it with no meringue. But it was not too sweet and the banana flavor came through nicely.

The pecan pie was not homemade. It was a bit cold and the crust didn't have that browned crisp look or taste that fresh-baked pie would.

The restaurant serves alcohol with the purchase of a $5 membership. A restaurant staff member said while they don't credit the fee back to the bill as some restaurants, they might comp an appetizer or something.

Sounds good to me.

Weekend on 10/20/2016

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