Cooking with diabetes

Eclectic flavor mix gives chicken zing

This dish, from Claudia Roden, is a fine example of how a classic cookbook keeps on giving. Her 1996 Book of Jewish Food doesn't label its recipes "fast" or "easy" or "seasonal," so revisiting a chapter every now and then yields unexpectedly apt treasures. Here, the last-minute stirring-in of fresh mint takes a combination of ordinary ingredients to someplace special. The dish is loaded with more savory turmeric- and ginger-tinged vegetables than with meat.

When you have time to let the ingredients cook longer in the pot, use bone-in chicken, and you'll be rewarded with more flavor.

Jarred ginger-garlic paste (and separate jarred ginger paste and garlic puree) is available in the international aisle (Indian section) of supermarkets or with the fresh herbs in the produce department.

Minty Carrot Chicken

2 large white onions

2 large cloves garlic

3 tablespoons sesame oil (not toasted; may substitute sunflower oil)

1 1/4 pounds carrots

1 serrano chile pepper

1 1/4 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons ginger-garlic paste (may blend equal parts ginger paste and garlic paste)

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

Water

Leaves from 4 to 6 stems fresh mint

Cut the onions in half, then cut each half into thin half-moons. Cut the garlic lengthwise into very thin slices.

Heat the oil in a large saute pan or deep-sided skillet over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, stir in the onion and garlic until well coated. Cook for about 8 minutes, stirring a few times, until just softened.

Meanwhile, scrub the carrots well. Working with one at a time, cut a lengthwise strip off one side, then turn the carrot cut side down (to steady it). Cut the remaining carrot into long, thin strips, then cut the strips into 1-inch lengths.

Cut the serrano pepper in half; stem and seed it, then cut the flesh lengthwise into strips, the thickness of which depends on whether you want to use them just for flavoring the sauce (thick strips) or whether you'll be eating them (very thin strips).

Trim the chicken of excess fat. Season the chicken lightly all over with salt.

Add the ginger-garlic paste, the strips of serrano pepper and the ground turmeric to the onion-garlic mixture in the pan. Cook for 1 minute, stirring, then temporarily transfer most of the mixture to a large bowl.

Add the chicken thighs to the pan; increase the heat to medium-high. Cook for 5 minutes, turning once halfway through, until the chicken is lightly browned on both sides. (It will not be cooked through.)

Add the carrots, then return the onion-garlic mixture to the pan. Pour in just enough water to cover (2 to 3 cups). Add a pinch of salt and cook (uncovered, still over medium-high heat) for about 10 minutes, stirring a few times, so the mixture is at a lively bubble; the chicken should be cooked through, the carrots should be tender and the liquid in the pan should have reduced a bit. Turn off the heat.

Meanwhile, finely chop the mint (to yield at least 3 tablespoons); stir it into the mixture in the pan. If you've used thick-cut strips of serrano, you might wish to discard them. Taste, and add salt as needed. Serve hot.

Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition information: Each serving contains approximately 380 calories, 31 g protein, 16 g fat, 31 g carbohydrate (14 g sugar), 125 mg cholesterol, 400 mg sodium and 7 g fiber.

Carbohydrate choices: 2.

Recipe adapted from The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey From Samarkand to New York by Claudia Roden (Alfred A. Knopf)

Food on 09/28/2016

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