Q The wild straw-berry plant seems to be overtaking my back lawn this year; is there a post-emergent herbicide control for this plant that will spare my zoysia lawn, which is partly to mostly shaded?
A A broadleaf herbicide with 2,4-D can give you some control of wild strawberries, but I believe the issue is the shade. Grass and shade are not good partners. If you have a thin lawn due to shade, opportunistic weeds have an advantage. You may want to kill out the area with Roundup and plant a shade-loving ground cover that can give you deep coverage and help to prevent the weeds.
Q I remember you writing a piece about reasons not to plant the Bradford pear tree in Arkansas. My husband mentioned planting one a few days ago, and I was trying to remember the reasons that you do not recommend it but was having trouble remembering them. Please refresh my memory.
A I am glad you asked before buying one. There are a whole host of reasons not to plant a Bradford pear. At maturity they are larger than most people realize -- growing up to 40 feet tall and wide. They have a dense tear-drop shape, which makes them susceptible to falling apart in storms or wind. They flower beautifully but set a copious amount of fruit. The birds eat the fruit, then fly around cities and woods. Thus seedling Callery pears are blanketing our state, making them one of the most invasive plants in Arkansas. There are much better spring-flowering trees, including fringe trees, redbuds, hawthorns and serviceberry.
Q We have two 20-year-old lace-leaf Japanese maples about 20 feet apart in a shaded area. One leans over our goldfish pond, and a portion of the older branches get some noontime sun for a couple of hours. All of the leaves on this tree are wilted. The other tree is perfect. Did the cold spell cause this? Is it because of cooler air around the water? Will it revive, or is it permanent damage? I hope you have good news for us.
A I don't think the pond had any influence on the branches that are damaged. I would think sunlight exposure has more to do with it than anything. Plants that are in full afternoon sun get more heating and tend to be farther along in seasonal growth (in this case, waking up from winter dormancy) than those in more shade. It has been a weird winter and spring, and let's hope we get no more surprises. For now, do nothing but wait to see how the plant continues to grow. If you see the wilting spread to other branches, then I would be worried. Do you see any wounds, growths, holes, etc., anywhere near where the affected branches are? Those would suggest something other than winter damage.
Q This year I do think I need to prune my rhododendrons. I originally had three of them in my front yard and read instructions on how to prune, so several years ago I did this to one of them and it promptly died. This year the biggest (about 8 feet) needs to be pruned back. The top branches look dead to me, but I am afraid to touch it after what happened to its sister. I had a chance to read your article recently on pruning but saw nothing on the rhododendrons. I love these plants. Not many people are able to grow them here but mine have just been beautiful. People stop every year to find out what they are as they are not a familiar plant. My daughter in Oregon grows them, and they really thrive there. If you can just give me some advice as to when and where to prune, I might have the courage to do it.
A Rhododendrons do not normally thrive in Arkansas as they do in Oregon, but there are gardeners who have success. The time to prune them is immediately following bloom. I would not prune off more than one third of the branches. Selectively prune out a few branches back to the branch collar. Do not remove any more growth than you need to. Lightly fertilize with an azalea fertilizer after pruning, and pay attention to watering needs.
Q My lawn has been treated with pre-and post-emergent herbicides. There are bare spots that need to be over-seeded. If I break up the surface before planting will the grass seed germinate?
A Pre-emergent herbicides prevent weed seeds from germinating, and often don't differentiate weed seed from grass seed. I would try spot sodding and avoid using herbicides while the lawn is establishing.
Janet B. Carson is a horticulture specialist for the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. Write to her at 2301 S. University Ave., Little Rock, Ark. 72204 or email her at
jcarson@arkansasonline.com
HomeStyle on 04/08/2017