Tasty, egg-free mousse made of chickpea juice

The award for most compelling actor in an utterly unexpected role goes to ... the chickpea.

The legume, which also works under the stage name garbanzo, stars in such classics as falafel, hummus and three-bean salad. Vegetarians praise its protein power. Carnivores go for its nutty appeal. The bean has even taken bit parts, subbing for flour in pasta and potatoes in chips.

Late in such an illustrious career, the chickpea might have been a candidate for a lifetime-achievement award. No one expected a box-office smash. No one expected aquafaba.

The plot, based on a true story, goes like this: Software engineer Goose Wohlt pries open a can of cooked chickpeas. As he's about to strain off and toss the viscous goo, he does a double take. Strangely, he pours the liquid into a bowl and whips it like egg whites. Strangely, it acts like egg whites, billowing into glossy meringue.

Aquafabulous Mousse

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate (60 percent cacao)

1 (15- to 16-ounce) can chickpeas

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/2 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Break up chocolate. Melt in a double boiler. Scrape into another bowl and let cool a bit.

Pour chickpeas through a strainer, catching liquid in a wide measuring cup. Save chickpeas for another recipe (such as Indian-Style Vegetable Curry With Potatoes and Cauliflower, also in this section). Measure 3/4 cup liquid (this is aquafaba) into the bowl of an electric mixer.

Whisk cream of tartar into aquafaba. Using the electric mixer, whisk until white and foamy, about 1 minute. Slowly cascade in sugar, whisking constantly, to glorious sturdy peaks, about 4 more minutes. Whisk in vanilla.

Using a soft spatula, gently and thoroughly fold chocolate into meringue. Heap into a serving bowl. Cover and chill 2 or more hours.

Scoop into small bowls. If you like, garnish with orange zest, a few candied nuts, or, if no vegans are looking, whipped cream.

Makes 4 servings.

Food on 04/26/2017

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