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FRONT BURNER: Frittering away season's fresh kernels

Fresh corn fritters
Fresh corn fritters

One of the first cookbooks to come into my possession as a professional food writer was Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. The original version was published in 1997 and still graces my overloaded bookshelves. Madison released an updated version of the comprehensive tome in 2014, but it's the 1997 version I turn to again and again.

So needless to say, when it comes to vegetable dishes, I trust Madison. Her recipes have rarely let me down.

I recently came across one of her corn fritter recipes while looking for something else. The recipe is from one of Madison's books I don't have -- Local Flavors -- but is now on my to-buy list.

The fritters make an excellent appetizer, lunch or light dinner.

Madison suggests serving the fritters with peppery arugula, which is delicious, but I like to serve them with roasted cherry tomatoes for an extra taste of summer.

I made a few minor changes -- substituting cilantro for the parsley, skipping the basil and adding a little kick with smoked paprika and crushed red pepper flakes -- with delicious results.

Fresh Corn Fritters

4 to 6 ears fresh corn, shucked

4 green onions, green and white parts, thinly sliced

2 or 3 eggs

1/2 cup chopped fresh herbs such as cilantro or flat-leaf parsley

4 ounces sharp cheddar, Swiss or feta cheese, shredded or crumbled

1/3 to 2/3 cup all-purpose flour

Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Butter, for frying

Vegetable oil, for frying

Using a sharp knife, cut the kernels from the corn then, using the flat side of the blade, press as much "milk" from the cobs as you can. You will need 3 cups of kernels for this recipe, so you may not need all 6 ears of corn. (If desired, save and freeze the cobs for making stock. Recipe follows.)

In a large bowl, combine the kernels, the green onions, 2 of the eggs, herbs, cheese and 1/3 cup of the flour. Season with salt, pepper, smoked paprika and crushed red pepper flakes. If mixture is too loose, stir in the remaining flour. If mixture is too dry, mix in the remaining egg. The batter should just hold together.

In a large skillet, melt 1 to 2 tablespoons of butter with 1 to 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil. Drop batter by large spoonfuls into the hot skillet, flattening gently with the back of the spoon. Fry until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Then flip and fry on second side until browned. Be careful of wayward corn kernels that will likely sputter and fly out of the pan occasionally. Replenish butter and oil as needed and repeat with the remaining batter.

Drain on paper towels. Serve warm.

Makes about 6 servings.

Recipe adapted from Local Flavors by Deborah Madison

Corn stock is delicious in soups and chowders and so easy to make. It'll keep for about a week in the refrigerator, or freeze it for longer storage.

Corn Stock

1 medium onion, peeled and quartered

4 to 6 corn cobs, kernels removed

Salt, optional

In a large saucepan, combine onion, corn cobs and a generous pinch of salt, if desired; add 2 quarts water. Bring to a boil over high heat and immediately reduce to a simmer. Simmer 45 minutes. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Strain, and use immediately or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 3 months.

Food on 08/16/2017

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