Q. I am wondering about leather patches on blazers and sport jackets. Are they really appropriate for business settings, or do they just show that I'm wearing worn-out clothes? Are there some blazers that are and aren't appropriate for them?
A. In the world of men's dressing, some aspects are ironclad rules and some are more a matter of taste and personal preference. Even though you did not specify what type of leather patches you mean, I am assuming that you are referring to leather elbow patches since there is no other type of leather patches that are in any way appropriate for a well-dressed man to wear. This is one of those ironclad rules.
Another rule is that leather elbow patches are never appropriate on a suit.
But whether, when, and where leather elbow patches are appropriate on a blazer or a sports jacket is another story. It all depends on a number of factors:
• Harmony -- how dressy/elegant that particular blazer or sports jacket is;
• Individual dressing style -- the personality of the man who is wearing the jacket;
• Context -- the overall style/effect/degree of formality of the entire combination he is wearing.
Harmony is one of the most subtle and sophisticated elements of being well dressed. Wearing leather elbow patches very much fits into this area. If a man wears a handsome smooth-finish navy blazer made of wool or cashmere, or if he decides on a rough-textured tweed sports jacket, his clothes should still be in harmony. If he wants to introduce a style as informal and nonchalant as leather elbow patches, they would only work well on the casual tweed jacket, and would not be in keeping with his dressy navy blazer. The ability to balance the various elements in an outfit is a large part of the skill and the fun of dressing well.
Individual dressing style helps separate one man from another. Some elegant dressers find the idea of sleeve patches totally out of their comfort zone for a couple of reasons. These men might think that adding them to a new item of clothing is nothing more than an affectation since the concept of elbow patches was originally invented and introduced by the frugal rich to extend the life of an old jacket. Or they might just not like such an informal style. In either case, these are the men who should not wear them.
Other, less traditional dressers are fond of elbow patches; they see them as "something different" when so much of men's clothing is limited and unchanging. For these men, the patches offer an opportunity to insert an element of variety into their clothing.
These are two very different types of dressers; their clothing choices usually reflect their individual preferences. An Ivy League professorial type will not make the same choices as a Mad Men or Suits type of guy.
Context matters. Even if a man combines a bit of this and a bit of that to create his overall look, the "spirit" of each piece should fit nicely with everything else he is wearing. So, that fine navy blazer might be combined with a white or powder blue broadcloth shirt and a small-patterned silk tie. And the tweed sports jacket might be put together with an Oxford-cloth button-down shirt and a wool paisley tie.
Both combinations exemplify a well-thought-out and a well-put-together mixture. Part of the thinking tells the wearer that the elegance of the one should exclude the patches and the relaxed air of the other allows for the patches if the wearer likes them and wants to wear them.
Finally, as to whether elbow patches are appropriate for work, the answer hinges on the corporate culture of the specific business setting. In a business environment where such elements as button-down collar shirts, slip-on loafers and wearing a sports jacket layered over a sweater are perfectly acceptable, leather elbow patches would fit right in. So, if that describes where you work and you like the look, go for it.
Send men's fashion queries to Male Call:
lois.fenton@prodigy.net
High Profile on 08/20/2017