RESTAURANT REVIEW + PHOTOS: Burger 21 beefs (and shrimps) up Little Rock burger scene

The Spicy Thai Shrimp Burger is one of two seafood options at Burger 21 in Little Rock.
The Spicy Thai Shrimp Burger is one of two seafood options at Burger 21 in Little Rock.

Here are 21 things to know about Burger 21, the new outlet of a cheery fast-casual burger chain in the Chenal Place shopping center that houses Bed Bath & Beyond and Staples.

1.) The number 21 refers to how many types of burgers -- Angus beef, chicken, turkey, veggie, even seafood -- Burger 21 serves.

Burger 21

Address: 12319 Chenal Parkway, Little Rock

Hours: 10:45 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 10:45 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: Burgers, salads, hot dogs, chicken tenders, shakes

Credit cards: V, MC, AE, D

Alcoholic beverages: Beer, wine

Reservations: No

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Carryout: Yes

​(501) 916-2520

burger21.com

2.) Although its concept is numerically based, the menu is arranged in the most illogical, unsystematic way. The beef burgers, for example, are listed in this order: No. 6, 3, 2, 8, 9, 7, 5, 4, 10, 1 ... huh? We have a beef with that.

3.) The No. 21 is always a special featured burger. When we visited, it was the savory Southern Lucy ($6.99), a beef burger theoretically stuffed with cheese (American and Swiss), topped with crispy onion strings and bacon aioli on a brioche bun with a tongue-tickling tomato jam. We say theoretically because there was more cheese that spilled out of our burger than remained inside after a short commute home.

4.) Speaking of 21, for those who are of age, there are beer and wine. But we were much more interested in the shakes.

5.) In addition to eight Signature Shakes ($4.29 small, $4.69 regular) -- like the summery, sweet Strawberry Shortcake accented with cubes of pound cake -- and three signature Classic Shakes ($3.29 small, $3.79 regular), the restaurant also serves five Retro Floats ($4.19). A Cookie Sundae ($4.29) and cookies ($1.29 each, $2.99 three) are other dessert offerings.

6.) But first, meals. There are 10 hand-pressed beef burgers (or 11 depending on the No. 21 selection) cooked to a pink center unless otherwise requested. Most burgers, like the balanced Black & Bleu ($6.99), a blackened beef patty with salty bacon, bitey blue cheese sauce and cheese crumbles with lettuce and tomato, are served on a soft-yet-sturdy brioche bun. Only the Patty Melt ($6.99), wearing a marvelous mess of grilled onions, Swiss cheese and remoulade, was served on Texas toast that could have been toastier.

7.) Options don't stop there, thanks to add-ons. Go ahead and double-stack your beef burger ($2.99), throw a fried egg on it ($1), add some chili (89 cents) and some fresh avocado (95 cents) and have some house-made potato crisps (89 cents) too.

8.) And then there's the bar of self-serve sauces. It features everything from ranch to marshmallow (!) for anyone who wishes to embellish their meals or milkshakes.

9.) Smaller burgers are available; three-packs of beef sliders are $7.29-$8.29. But a three-pack of sliders feature more food -- and costs more money -- than a regular burger. That's why the three Black & Bleu Sliders are $8.29, while the Black & Bleu burger is $6.99.

10.) With the slogan "Burgers Reinvented," Burger 21 offers two seafood burgers: the Ahi Tuna Burger ($9.99) and the Spicy Thai Shrimp ($7.79). Because I had to see a shrimp burger, I ordered it and found the lightly fried patty of chopped shrimp inoffensive, but not all that interesting. Except for the sriracha aioli and sesame Thai slaw, the burger, also topped with lettuce and tomato, didn't have much flavor.

11.) There are four chicken burgers ($6.49-$6.99). A friend described the Buffalo Chicken Burger ($6.79) this way: "The Buffalo Chicken burger was pretty darned tasty. A thick hunk of ground chicken patty covered in buffalo sauce and blue cheese garnished with a shred or two of lettuce on a substantial bun. Nice buns, indeed, Burger 21 -- you little minx."

12.) Speaking of buns, there is a gluten-free version (add $1) for those who have sensitivities and lettuce leaves to embrace burgers for those counting calories.

13.) But we don't and we weren't. So we ordered what B21 calls a "shareable" portion of the most decadent-sounding fries: the Cheese & Ale ($6.99). While the fries were crisp and tasty, the sad sauce -- a coagulated yellow cheese with bits of bacon and green onion on top -- was, well, ailing.

14.) Other sides include the recommendable regular ($2.59 side; $5.49 shareable) and sweet potato ($3.09 side, $6.49 shareable) fries. Want both? There's the best-of-both-worlds Half & Half option ($3.09 side, $6.49 shareable).

15.) There are two turkey burgers and two veggie burgers on the menu, but we never ordered them and never will. Because ... beef.

16.) There are three configurations of chicken tenders. There's a sandwich ($5.19), a basket with fries ($6.59) and a buffalo basket with fries ($6.99), but we never sampled them either. Because ... burgers.

17.) There are five salads ($2.99-$7.99) we didn't try. Eventually we will attempt the Super Burger Bowl Salad ($7.99) and the Black & Bleu Chopped Salad ($7.99). Because ... burgers ... and bacon.

18.) There are also three "gourmet" dogs ($3.99-$5.29) on the menu, which we also did not try. They include a regular, a chili cheese and the Great Dane Dog, featuring "pickled cucumbers, chopped tomatoes, onion strings, remoulade sauce, New England roll. Based on price and ingredient busy-ness, we'd guess that last one is best in show.

19.) A kids menu offers a choice of salad, chicken tenders, burger, grilled cheese or hot dog with a side (apple sauce, fruit or fries) and drink for $4.99.

20.) Expect cute, casual Burger 21 to be busy at peak times, and expect the cramped parking lot to be a bother. Once inside, pleasant employees help customers through the ordering process and bring out food and refill drinks in a decent amount of time. But do check your carryout orders. We almost left without fries on one visit. And then when an employee did bring fries, she brought the wrong ones.

21.) On the 21st of each month, Burger 21 donates a portion of sales to a different charity partner. So that's a way to slide in some good will with your sliders.

photo

Cheese & Ale fries are a shareable side at Burger 21 in Little Rock

Weekend on 08/24/2017

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