RESTAURANT REVIEW + PHOTOS: 'Ark-Mex Brunch' is nacho average Heights Taco meal

The Churros Waffle comes loaded with sugary goodness — topped with cinnamon, caramel and Creme Anglaise — for brunch at Heights Taco & Tamale.
The Churros Waffle comes loaded with sugary goodness — topped with cinnamon, caramel and Creme Anglaise — for brunch at Heights Taco & Tamale.

Heights Taco & Tamale, 5805 Kavanaugh Blvd., Little Rock, recently started serving Sunday "Ark-Mex Brunch," with the menu now up to a baker's half-dozen dishes. Four of them definitely succeed as maybe breakfast, maybe lunch, and certainly somewhere in between.

If you're looking for a real breakfast dish, or just need a sugar rush, head directly for the Churros Waffle ($7.50), a Belgian waffle dipped in cinnamon sugar and coated with warm Cajeta Mexican caramel, whipped cream and Creme Anglaise. If that's not enough to put you into a coma, add a side of Petit Jean bacon for $3.

Heights Taco & Tamale

Sunday brunch

Address: 5805 Kavanaugh Blvd., Little Rock

Hours: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: Ark-Mex

Credit cards: V, MC, AE, D

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar; specialty brunch cocktails

Reservations: Large parties

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Carryout: Yes

(501) 313-4848

We found ourselves drowning in our huge skillet-ful of Breakfast Nachos ($11.50), strips of grilled chicken with refried black beans, Hatch green chile sauce, Jack cheese, thin-sliced fresh jalapenos, Cholula hot sauce and cilantro over sturdy chips, all topped with two fried eggs and served with sides of sour cream, guacamole and pico de gallo. But we managed to finish it.

It reminded us of chilaquiles, a popular Mexican breakfast dish. And damned if the following week the menu didn't add Chilaquiles Divorciados ($9.50) -- nothing involving split couples, but in this case a skillet with tortilla strips, pulled chicken and cheese all topped by a fried egg, with divided sauces -- half in a zippy green tomatillo sauce, half in a New Mexican red chile sauce.

The Tamales-For-Breakfast Skillet ($9) nicely bridges South and South of the Border, three "Delta-style" pork tamales well drenched in a red chile "gravy," topped with cheese, two sunny-side-up eggs and a fistful of cilantro.

We didn't try the All-Day Breakfast Tacos ($9) this time 'round, but they're on HT&T's regular menu and we recommended them when we originally reviewed the place in May 2015 -- puffy flour tortillas filled with a layer of house-made chorizo breakfast sausage, Hatch green chile salsa and Jack cheese, topped with a fried egg and a drizzle of mild Cholula sauce.

The other options we'll eventually try on subsequent Sundays: Sunday Biscuits & Gravy with two eggs ($9, plus $3 for a side plate of bacon) and the Veggie Brunch Tacos ($8.50), corn tortillas wrapping refried black beans, pico de gallo, fried egg, avocado, Cotija cheese, fresh jalapenos and Cholula.

Four brunch cocktails -- Frozen White Peach Sangria ($7.50), with house peach syrup, peach liqueur, white wine and prosecco; HTT Healer ($8), blending a name-brand tequila, pineapple, orange juice, spices, Tabasco sauce and bitters; Mezcal Paloma ($8), mezcal, grapefruit Steigl-Radler (that's a German fruit beer), elderflower liqueur and lemon; and the Heights Mimosa ($7.50), prosecco, orange juice, elderflower liqueur, cucumber water and agave nectar -- complement the offerings of the full bar and HT&T's cocktail program.

Brunch setups come with a napkin and a fork, but no knife; we needed one for the chicken strips for our nachos (too big to just eat and not tender enough to cut with a fork).

Weekend on 08/31/2017

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