Q. Is there a difference in formality between double-breasted and single-breasted suits and blazers? I think double breasted is more formal and I was thinking a double-breasted blazer I have in my closet might be a good choice for my office Christmas luncheon since it is not a suit, but is dressy. Am I wrong?
A. No, you are not wrong. Double-breasted cuts are indeed more formal than single breasteds. You are also correct that a double-breasted blazer is less dressy than a suit, and is dressier than a single-breasted blazer. But double breasted has not been in fashion for some time.
Even though double-breasted jackets are trendier (and, thus, less classic) than single-breasted cuts, and though they are definitely far less popular these days than they were some years back, they still are being worn occasionally. While most stores no longer stock them, some men continue to wear the ones they own and even to order new ones through such forward designers as Tom Ford and the better stores' made-to-measure departments. Double-breasted styling has always had a loyal following with certain men because it has a few special advantages. While single breasteds are worn open when seated and either buttoned or open when standing, the double-breasted jacket is always worn buttoned. This gives it an added air of polish. Another strong advantage is that the "DB" (as it is referred to in the clothing industry) is exceptionally flattering; it makes a man look taller, slimmer and more elegant. For some, especially older men who are traditionalists, the cut is still a preference.
If you decide to wear your blazer, those in the know will recognize it as not the latest style and others may also subconsciously know (based on not seeing them around much). So, if you fear you might be thought of as wearing older clothes and/or you care, that may be a concern. However, because very few men wear it, the double-breasted cut is one way to show your style and set yourself apart from the crowd IF you have the self-confidence to be different.
What many men do not know is that there are different types of double-breasted cuts: those with six buttons, and those with four buttons. Here, you have a choice. These days the four-button style is not the one to choose. Although it was a style made immensely popular awhile back by the designer, Giorgio Armani, it now has a dated, draped look that announces it was from a decade or two ago. The six-button version allows for a closer fit, which better suits current menswear preferences.
The look now is a trimmer pant with a plain front and a narrow leg. The narrow bottoms on the trousers sit more directly on the top of the shoe with a much smaller break. The old look was a fuller jacket and much more voluminous pants; to a current eye, it looks like too much fabric. Another difference: coat jacket lengths are much shorter than they were five or six years ago.
Here's a thought. If your double-breasted blazer is an older/fuller design, and, in fact, if a number of your jackets and suits are as well -- for a great deal less expense than buying a new wardrobe, you might consider updating your look; it can be as simple as finding a really fine tailor who can slim down the garments hanging in your closet. These alterations are not inexpensive, but they could be a very wise and worthwhile investment.
Please send men's fashion questions to Male Call:
Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net
High Profile on 12/10/2017