Q I have a short row of old red tips. They are at least 9 feet tall. I want to cut them back to about 4 feet tall so I can trim every year without using a ladder. Is December too early? Should I wait until later?
A Red tips or red top photinias are a common landscape plant that has been used as a hedge plant for many years. In the past 20 years, they have been gradually disappearing from our gardens due to a leaf-spot disease. I am glad yours are doing so well. I would recommend waiting until the end of February or early March before severely pruning them back. Heavy pruning now is going to expose the plants to winter injury. Waiting until the bulk of the winter has passed gives the plant a buffer of top growth that can take the brunt should we get damaging cold. When the time comes, prune away. They should rebound fairly quickly with the burst of new growth in the spring. Do be aware that rapid new growth can be more susceptible to the disease.
Q I have a lemon tree (inside under lights at this time, of course) that is loaded with buds. I have had an ongoing problem of tiny, pea-size lemons hanging on for a while and then dropping off. This happens whether the tree is inside or outside. The tree is in a large clay pot. Can you please suggest a remedy for this problem?
A Some fruit shed is normal, but you shouldn't lose all the fruit. Normally only 1 percent to 2 percent of the blooms need to set fruit in order to get a good crop. I would assume the tree is getting enough light since it is at least setting fruit. Lemons are self-fruitful, so only one tree is needed to get fruit. A minimum of six hours of sunlight per day is needed, and even moisture. How often do you water? If the trees get too dry they will shed fruit.
Q We have about 10 large hosta plants around a persimmon tree that is well shaded. We have never divided them. They are beautiful each year and are really the focal point of that area of the yard. They seem to really thrive where they are. They are also more special because they were grown from cuttings from my mother's plants some 10-15 years ago. The problem is the persimmon tree. It overhangs our driveway and has finally gotten so obnoxious with the persimmons falling on our concrete driveway that we are taking the tree out and grinding the stump. We would like to transplant the hostas this week. I know it's not the ideal time to transplant them, but would they survive? Also, do you have any tips for increasing our chances of success? The area we anticipate moving them into is beneath a hickory tree, but it receives significantly more sun. Is this a bad idea? Another idea is to move them temporarily so they aren't damaged by the tree/stump removal, replant them and in early spring move them to a more permanent location.
A Hosta plants are fairly resilient and, I think, would take the move in stride. The key is to find a location that gets afternoon shade during the summer. Now that they are dormant the sunlight really is not a factor. Moisture is. We have been fairly dry this fall, so be sure to water them well after you move them, and add a light layer of mulch. Pay attention to rainfall, and if we stay behind, consider watering. This is not a daily task nor necessarily a weekly one. The key is to pay attention. Watering needs will vary based on rainfall, temperature and wind. They won't have a huge, established root system yet, so they will need a little TLC. You can move them to a permanent spot or a temporary one and move again in the spring. If you are planning on dividing them at the same time, you may want to leave a few more crowns per division for added protection of the roots. If you are considering the temporary move and replanting in the spring, delay the division until the second move.
Janet B. Carson is a horticulture specialist for the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. Write to her at 2301 S. University Ave., Little Rock, Ark. 72204 or email her at
jcarson@arkansasonline.com
HomeStyle on 12/23/2017