Creme of the crop

Impress your sweetheart with the ultimate chocolate ‘pudding’

Serving the pot de creme is simple, as it is typically eaten right out of the ramekin.
Serving the pot de creme is simple, as it is typically eaten right out of the ramekin.

In recent years, many fans of fine restaurants have become familiar with the French-style dessert known as a pot de creme — literally a little “pot of cream.” You may sometimes hear this sweet treat described as a kind of chocolate pudding, but to me there is no comparison.

An egg-yolk-thickened pot de creme, which is very gently cooked in a hot-water bath in the oven rather than stirred in a pot on top of the stove, is much smoother and more intense than any pudding you could imagine, almost like a cousin to a custard, although not as eggy-tasting. To me, it’s the perfect combination of richness, silky smoothness and intensity of flavor.

You’ll find this dessert in all kinds of popular flavors, including vanilla, butterscotch, salted caramel, coffee and lemon. The most popular flavor of all, of course, is chocolate, and it’s at its best when you start with a good-quality bittersweet variety.

Take special care to melt the chocolate gently over simmering water, as described in the following recipe, so it doesn’t scorch or seize up, turning stiff and unmanageable. You’ll need six individual 3/4-cup ramekins or souffle dishes, and to hold these “pots” while cooking them in the oven, you’ll also need a baking pan with sides.

Allow about an hour total for mixing and cooking the mixture, and at least another three hours or so for cooling and chilling the pots de creme. I find they will keep well in the refrigerator for up to two days. This means that with Valentine’s Day

falling on a Tuesday this year, you could prepare them on Sunday evening or the night before the holiday.

Serving the pot de creme is simple, as it is typically eaten right out of the ramekin. I always like to place the ramekins on a small plate, and just before presenting them, top them with dollops of freshly whipped cream and some chocolate shavings or a light dusting of cocoa powder. Of course, for your loved one, you could feel free to get even more creative, topping the cream with a single candied rose petal — or even a conversation heart. Here’s to a delicious, romantic Valentine’s Day.

DARK CHOCOLATE POT DE CREME

Makes 6

Ingredients:

3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, cut into small pieces

2 cups heavy cream

1/2 cup milk

5 large cage-free egg yolks

1/4 cup granulated sugar

Pinch of kosher salt

Freshly whipped cream, for serving

Directions:

Position the rack in the center of the oven. Heat the oven to 325 degrees.

In a medium-sized heatproof bowl set over a pan of gently simmering water, heat the chocolate. When the chocolate is almost melted, turn off the heat, and let stand until completely melted, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, in a medium-sized saucepan, combine the cream and milk. Over medium-high heat, bring the mixture almost to a boil. Remove from the heat.

In another medium-sized heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar and salt until the sugar has dissolved completely. While whisking continuously, slowly pour in the hot cream mixture.

Remove the melted chocolate from the stove. Hold a fine-meshed strainer over the bowl of chocolate and pour the hot cream-yolk mixture through the strainer into the chocolate. Whisk until well combined and smooth.

Ladle the mixture into six individual 3/4-cup ramekins, and arrange the ramekins in a baking pan with sides. Pour enough warm water into the pan to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the entire baking pan with aluminum foil, and carefully place the pan in the oven.

Bake until the mixture around the edges of each ramekin looks firm when lightly, carefully shaken, about 35 minutes. (The baking time will vary depending on the depth and width of the ramekins.) The center may still move a bit but will firm up as the mixture chills.

Carefully remove the ramekins from the baking pan, wipe them dry, and leave them to cool at room temperature. Then place them on a flat baking tray covered with foil, and refrigerate until firm, 2 to 3 hours.

To serve, spoon some whipped cream in the center of each ramekin, and decorate further if you wish. Transfer to a dessert plate, and serve immediately.

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