Fish cakes hail from Napoleon's isle

Middle of nowhere is a long haul for a fish cake. But apparently that's the best spot.

I learned so from my husband's cousin's wife, who confided she's from St. Helena. I squinted: Where? Her lush accent didn't sound like St. Helena, Calif. Nor St. Helena Island, S.C.

This St. Helena, I learned, is a volcanic speck in the South Atlantic, a place so remote it served as Napoleon's prison. Ships navigating the trade winds drop by, which explains the cuisine: ocean bounty, exotic spices and sturdy staples. The fish cake -- a tuna-rich, potato-tender, chile-spiced wonder -- is practiced there. Also something called "bread-n-dance," a tomato-paste sandwich. That's remote.

This tuna oasis sounds so appealing I'm determined to visit. My cousin smirked. Apparently I'm welcome any time I've got time. It takes five days on the mail boat from Cape Town. More from Brazil. Long crossing for a fish cake. So, until I make it there, I'll make a few here.

St. Helena Fish Cakes

1/2 pound russet potatoes, peeled, quartered

1/2 pound fresh tuna

Mild oil, such as canola

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 small clove garlic, finely chopped

1 slice bacon, diced

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme

1 fresh serrano chile, finely chopped

1/4 teaspoon EACH: salt, black pepper, paprika, cayenne

1 egg, lightly beaten

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

1/4 cup mayonnaise

Settle potato chunks in a large pot of salted water. Bring to a boil; cook until tender (poke one with a skewer -- it should be easy work), about 20 minutes. Drain. Press potatoes through a ricer into a large bowl. Or smash with a potato masher. Let cool.

Use a sharp heavy knife to finely chop fish (a little coarser, say, than ground beef). Use a fork to gently mix into cooled potato.

Pour 1 tablespoon oil into a large skillet. Heat over medium. Scrape in onion, garlic, bacon, parsley, thyme, chile and spices. Cook, stirring, until everything looks brown and tasty, about 8 minutes. Scrape onto a plate to cool. Wipe out skillet.

Add cooled onion mix to the fish and potatoes along with the egg and zest. Mix, gently. Shape 8 pucks, each about 3/4-inch thick and 2 1/2 inches in diameter.

Slick the skillet with oil. Heat over medium. Fry pucks until brown, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels.

Whisk mayo with 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Set 2 cakes on each of 4 plates; serve with a spoonful of lemon mayo.

Makes 4 servings.

Food on 02/22/2017

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