Creature Feature

Arkansas Democrat-Gazette cat detective illustration.
Arkansas Democrat-Gazette cat detective illustration.

Many of the questions I receive from readers are related to litter box problems, with the majority concerning cats that begin to inexplicably go in places other than the box. When I hear from them, the owners of these cats are usually at their wits' end trying to understand what's happening and how to deal with it.

Last week's column addressed the first step in uncovering the reason for the inappropriate elimination, which is taking the cat to a veterinarian to discern whether the behavior is related to an underlying medical condition.

"Never assume a problem is behavioral until your cat gets a clean bill of health from the veterinarian," says feline behaviorist Pam Johnson-Bennett in her book, Starting From Scratch: How to Correct Behavior Problems in Your Adult Cat.

This week, let's look at environmental problems that can cause a cat to change its habits. Johnson-Bennett suggests starting at the litter box in the quest for answers. If the cat's problem lies in a physical aspect of or related to the box, a solution should present itself.

First, consider the cleanliness of the box. Cats are fastidious and dislike having to step in mounds and clumps of waste to take care of their business. Some cats are so particular that they'll turn up their noses if they find even a couple of clumps in the box. Begin scooping the box more than once a day to see if that corrects the problem. Also, if you have several cats, make sure you have one litter box per cat, plus an extra box. Even if you have only one cat, you may need two boxes because some cats prefer not to do all their business in one space.

The next thing to look at is the type of litter you're using. Cats are particular about the texture and scent of litter. If a cat begins avoiding the box after you've changed the type or brand of litter, return to the original and see what happens. If there's still a problem, you may have to try yet another brand or type. As a rule, get litter that's made of natural material and is unscented or not heavily perfumed. As for texture, most cats prefer litter with small, sandlike granules.

Now that the contents of the box have been taken into account, Johnson-Bennett says, assess the box that you're providing the cat. A cat that's large or overweight obviously needs a longer and wider box than would a petite cat or kitten. If a cat is elderly or has any mobility problems, then make sure the sides of the box aren't an impediment to getting into it.

Covered boxes may seem like a good idea because they can offer a cat privacy, but many cats simply don't like them. A cat can feel confined and uncomfortable in a covered box, plus the inability to see what's going on outside can make the cat feel vulnerable or anxious.

Sometimes litter box aversion is simply a matter of location, Johnson-Bennett says. For example, a cat won't use a box that's too close to his food bowl. He might also be averse to using a box that's in a high-traffic or noisy area. Another cat might not like for the box to be in a location that's completely isolated, difficult to access or in a tight space. Some cats don't like going up and down stairs or may be unable to do so easily.

Getting a cat back to his litter box means making sure no other place in the house smells like one. To do this, get a black light (available online and at pet supply stores) to pinpoint the exact location of urine stains; the light makes the urine glow. Mark stained areas with painters' tape, then soak them with an enzymatic cleanser such as those made by Nature's Miracle, Anti-Icky-Poo, Urine Off and Folex. Be sure to follow directions on the cleanser containers because they don't work like detergents, which will remove stains but not odors.

Family on 01/18/2017

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