RESTAURANT REVIEW + PHOTOS: Freddy's fills steakburger bill in North Little Rock

The single bacon cheese steakburger with fries at Freddy’s Frozen Custard & Steakburgers in North Little Rock comes in a red plastic basket.
The single bacon cheese steakburger with fries at Freddy’s Frozen Custard & Steakburgers in North Little Rock comes in a red plastic basket.

They had me at frozen custard.

And the steakburger part didn't hurt either.

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Photos by Rosemary Boggs

Freddy's Frozen Custard & Steakburgers in North Little Rock opened a few weeks ago, and judging from the long lines inside and at the drive-thru, it is quite popular. The attractive brick building with red-and-white signs on McCain Boulevard is inviting, festive and reminiscent of an old-time ice cream parlor.

The national chain, with a location under construction in west Little Rock at Chenal Parkway and South Bowman Road, was co-founded in 2002 by brothers Bill and Randy Simon, and their friend Scott Redler. It's named after the Simons' father, Freddy. Their aim is to serve freshly made food without a long wait.

We did have a bit of a wait, but the place was packed and things were hectic, with people standing in line to order and hovering while waiting for tables to empty. The small dining room was full and noisy, but the atmosphere was jovial and friendly.

The interior of the restaurant is cheerful, with red chairs and booth seats, dark tables, and white and silver accents. There are also several tables on a small patio out front.

After ordering, customers find a table, fill beverage cups and settle in to wait for order numbers to be called. With all the conversations and dining room noises, it was hard to hear the numbers as they were called. It's fascinating how much 102 and 118 can sound alike.

First out were our chocolate malts ($3.99 each) and a shake ($2.20 as added to a combo meal). They're served in clear plastic cups with fat straws that are about three times as wide as a normal straw. The custard was firm and the bigger straws seem to help draw the frozen goodness through easier. There was a mix-up at our table about the shake and one malt; there was not enough malt flavoring in the malt to differentiate it from the shake at first.

All were rich, very chocolatey and creamy, but it was odd that the custard melted around the edges but stayed thick in the middle. It was a constant stir situation.

Food is served in red plastic baskets with paper liners, giving it a diner/drive-in feel. We started with onion rings ($2.49) and chili cheese fries ($4.09). The flavorful rings of sliced onion were fried crisp, but the order was rather small. The chili cheese fries were extraordinary. The shoestring-thin fries were topped with a generous amount of well-seasoned chili, cheese sauce and onions, and were more than enough for two or three to share.

My favorite was the Original Double Patty Melt ($5.29), made with two juicy steakburgers, Swiss cheese and grilled onions on toasted rye bread. The rye added just the right flavor to the other ingredients.

Our party also ordered a bacon double cheese combo with fries ($8.09) and two single bacon cheeseburgers ($4.49 each). The meat of the steakburgers, which are flat and appear handmade, has a delicious flavor -- not overly seasoned or overcooked.

The promise of bacon on the burger was something we looked forward to, but it turned out to be the almost paper thin pre-cooked stuff. There was not enough on the burgers, and what was there was the antithesis of crisp.

The unadorned fries were cooked well, but not remarkable in any way. Shaker jars of steakburger and fry seasoning -- a mixture of things like salt, garlic powder and paprika -- are on every table. The seasoning adds a nice kick if you don't over sprinkle.

We tried the Chicago dog ($3.59), which comes topped with celery salt, chopped onions, mustard, relish, sport peppers, sliced pickles and tomatoes. The squarish buns are unique and tasty after being toasted. The beef dogs are, well, hot dogs, and nothing as special as the juicy burgers. I held the peppers, and found the big slices of tomato and pickle to be a bit too much. When I ordered I envisioned chopped pickle and tomato. It would have been much easier to bite into that way.

Regular and chili cheese hot dogs also are available ($2.89-$3.89).

Most of the menu is burgers. There is a veggie burger ($5.69) made with black beans and topped with cheese, onion, Freddy's sauce, lettuce and tomato, and served on a toasted bun.

Chicken fans might enjoy a grilled chicken breast sandwich ($5.29) topped with lettuce and tomato, and served on a bun. Or an order of chicken tenders ($4.49-$5.49), which aren't just for the kiddos.

There is a good array of condiments including regular mustard and ketchup, but also cheese sauce, sauerkraut and jalapenos. Freddy's has "Famous Fry Sauce," a companion to the fry seasoning, on each table. Both are sold in the restaurant or online.

As for the custard ($2.69-$5.29), it's sold in mini, regular and large sundaes or concretes -- custard with a variety of add-ins including candies, fruit or fudge. At Freddy's, one can choose chocolate or vanilla custard and add in everything from gummy worms and cheesecake to cashews, pecans and rainbow sprinkles.

Freddy's offers carry-out treats too. A freezer holds prepackaged pints or quarts, custard cakes and cookie sandwiches.

Weekend on 06/15/2017

Freddy’s Frozen Custard & Steakburgers

4305 E. McCain Blvd., North Little Rock

Hours: 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Cuisine: Burgers, hot dogs and frozen custard

Credit cards: V, MC, AE, D

Alcoholic beverages: No

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Carryout: Yes

(501) 955-5577

freddysusa.com

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