Pizza party

Welcome summer with a new approach to barbecue

Sliced onions and a blend of cheeses add extra flavor and texture.
Sliced onions and a blend of cheeses add extra flavor and texture.

Summer is now officially here, and everyone seems to be craving barbecue. Of course, that word can mean different things to different people, from the slowly smoked meat of the American South or Midwest to the Caribbean- and Mexican-influenced spicy barbacoa of the Southwest to the quickly grilled foods many people think of as barbecue in Southern California.

But when I first opened my Spago restaurant in 1982, we came up with yet another definition by translating so many of barbecue’s familiar elements into something I called a barbecue chicken pizza. It’s a dish my customers still ask for today; some of them have even learned to make it in their own homes. And besides being as delicious as it sounds, one of the best things about it is that you don’t even need a barbecue or grill to prepare it.

My barbecue chicken pizza combines so many of the qualities that people everywhere look for in great barbecued food. There’s the boneless, skinless chicken that so many people in California and elsewhere like to cook quickly over an open fire; but here, I use already cooked chicken, either leftover from another meal or conveniently purchased at the supermarket. For the sauce, I use a good, thick bottled variety like the K.C. Masterpiece brand, but you can use any you prefer. And then for Southwestern spice, I include some minced jalapeno chile, though you could substitute crushed red-pepper flakes, if you like, or leave it out completely if you want something milder.

The other parts of this pizza will probably remind you of what people like about any good pizza. I use my own homemade dough, though you could certainly substitute any good-quality pizza dough you find at the market. After rolling but before topping and baking it, I lightly brush the dough with some olive oil, which helps it brown nicely and adds a hint of the olive’s fruity green flavor. I also brush a little more oil on the crust after the pizza comes out of the oven. For more flavor and texture, I add sun-dried tomatoes and sliced red onion, though you could substitute other vegetables.

Then, of course, there’s the cheese — and not just one. I use a mixture of mozzarella and fontina, then add some freshly grated Parmesan when the pizza comes out of the oven. Feel free to substitute your own favorite combination, if you like.

All these elements add up to something that somehow feels both traditional and modern. And with no barbecue or grill in sight, it tastes, remarkably, like great barbecue, no matter how you define it.

WOLFGANG’S BARBECUE CHICKEN PIZZA

Makes 4 pizzas, each 8 to 10 inches

Ingredients:

1 pound leftover or store-bought boneless, skinless grilled or roasted chicken, cut into bite-sized chunks

4 tablespoons minced jalapeno chile

1 cup bottled barbecue sauce

Wolfgang’s Pizza Dough (recipe follows)

Extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

2 cups shredded fontina cheese

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

1 cup sun-dried tomatoes, thinly sliced

2 ounces fresh goat cheese

1 bunch fresh cilantro or parsley, leaves coarsely chopped

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Directions:

Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Put a baking stone in the oven at least 30 minutes before making the pizza.

In a bowl, toss the chicken with the jalapeno and barbecue sauce. Set aside.

Shape each pizza as directed in the dough recipe. Brush with olive oil, and evenly sprinkle with mozzarella and fontina. Top with chicken, red onions and tomatoes; dot with goat cheese.

Using a lightly floured baker’s peel or rimless baking sheet, slide a pizza onto the baking stone, and bake until nicely browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Carefully transfer to a cutting board. Repeat with the remaining 3 pizzas.

Brush each pizza’s crust with olive oil. Garnish with cilantro or parsley and Parmesan. Cut into slices with a pizza cutter or a large sharp knife. Serve immediately.

WOLFGANG’S PIZZA DOUGH

Makes enough for 4 pizzas

Ingredients:

1 packet active dry yeast

1 1/2 cups warm water, 105 to 115 degrees

1 tablespoon honey

Extra-virgin olive oil

3 to 4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

Directions:

In the bowl of a stand mixer, dissolve the yeast in the water. Stir in the honey. Leave until cloudy, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons oil.

Combine 3 cups flour with the salt, and add all at once to the yeast mixture. Mix at low speed using the paddle attachment. When the dough forms, change to the dough hook; knead at low speed for 2 minutes, then at medium speed until the dough comes away cleanly from the side of the bowl and clusters around the hook, 5 to 7 minutes.

Turn out the dough onto a clean work surface. Knead by hand 2 to 3 minutes, adding flour as needed, until smooth and elastic. Transfer to a clean, lightly oiled bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and leave at warm room temperature to rise for 30 minutes to 1 hour. When ready, the dough will stretch without tearing when gently pulled.

Divide the dough into four equal balls. Shape each by gently pulling the sides and tucking them under the bottom, working around the ball four or five times. On a smooth, unfloured surface, roll each ball under your palm until smooth and firm, about 1 minute. Put the balls on a tray or platter, cover with oiled plastic wrap or a damp towel, and leave to rest for at least

30 minutes. At this point, the balls can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for one to two days; they will need to be punched down when you are ready to roll them out.

To shape a pizza, place a dough ball on a lightly floured surface. Turn the dough as you press down on the center with the heel of your hand, gradually spreading it out to an 8-to-10-inch

circle, or use a rolling pin. Pinch a slightly thicker raised rim. Transfer to a lightly oiled pizza pan, or bake directly on the stone.

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