A FLAVORFUL LIFE: For those who may have missed the news, Bill Franke, 67, a third-generation owner of one of Arkansas' oldest restaurants, Franke's Cafeteria, passed away last Sunday.
Franke's grandfather C.A. began the business as a doughnut shop on Little Rock's West Capitol Avenue in 1919, followed by a bakery on West Third Street in 1922 and the first cafeteria at 115 W. Capitol in 1924, with another dining room around the corner at 511 Louisiana St. Through the years, Franke's expanded, with about a half-dozen locales in Little Rock, North Little Rock, Hot Springs and Fort Smith.
Today, two locations remain: one in the Regions building on West Capitol Avenue and the other on North Rodney Parham Road in west Little Rock.
Bill took over the reins from his father, W.J., in 1983. His daughter Christen managed the Rodney Parham location and represented the fourth generation until her passing at 37 in December.
Back in 2013, this columnist had the pleasure of visiting with Bill by phone for a feature for this newspaper's Food section. He spoke of the cafeteria's recipes, some dating to the 1920s and 1930s.
Signature items include eggplant casserole and egg custard pie. Then there were the calf brains and scrambled eggs, which were a popular breakfast offering in the 1950s though the mid-1960s.
The love Bill had for food and sharing it with fellow Arkansans was obvious, as was his and wife, Carolyn's, respect for history, evidenced by the collection of vintage photos of downtown Little Rock and the family's cafeteria proudly framed and displayed in the Rodney Parham Road restaurant. So was the family's attention to details, which made a difference such as offering dining "under the stars" (small white lights amid a black backdrop on a portion of the Rodney Parham Road restaurant's ceiling), which has become a tradition for regular diners.
Bill gave back to his community, serving as a founding board member of Potluck Food Rescue, which feeds local people in need. He also represented his industry, having served as president of the Restaurant Association and chairman of the Arkansas Hospitality Association; the latter inducted him into its Hall of Fame.
During our conversation, he told me if he could find some calf brains, he would fry them up at home just like his mom once did. Here's hoping he had the chance to have that culinary experience before his passing. It seems only fitting, considering all of the joy his family's dining establishment has shared with Arkansans.
Contact Linda S. Haymes at (501) 607-0675 or lindashaymes@gmail.com.
SundayMonday on 03/19/2017