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"It's important to me that you know this isn't a diet book," writes Jessica Murnane in the introduction to her cookbook, One Part Plant (Harper Wave, $27.99).

Murnane's book, instead, is what all cookbooks should be, a collection of enjoyable recipes meant to get you in the kitchen. Except that's not 100 percent true, because Murnane does have a bit of an agenda: She wants you to eat better, one plant at a time.

Her book, as its title suggests, advocates for a plant-based diet, but don't let that description deter you from cracking the spine. "The book is not about what you can't eat," Murnane says. "I'm trying to get people to try something different, not deprive them of anything."

This approach is gaining her a lot of praise, not the least of which comes from Lena Dunham, creator of the hit series Girls. In her foreword to One Part Plant, Dunham goes so far as to say the book "will change your life."

That's a high mark for a first-time cookbook author, but Murnane takes it in stride. "I'm not trying to shame anyone," she says.

"I'm not here telling people to quit cheese forever -- just maybe eat more vegetables."

The book is vibrant -- dishes jump off the page. The variety of foods, too, is impressive. It's not just salads. Murnane's tacos (made with creamy butternut squash and lentils) look worthy of any taqueria, while her mushroom-spinach lasagna is so hearty and filling, you'd never believe it didn't have cheese -- the creamy component is a surprisingly smooth and savory cashew sauce. A tomato-white bean panzanella (with bread) is bright with smashed garlic but comes together in just a few minutes. Same goes for her roasted potato, corn and leek chowder, a hearty, comforting soup with only eight common ingredients. A dessert section features everything from a neon-red granita by fellow cookbook author and friend Julia Turshen, to chocolate chip cookies and a triple berry skillet cobbler.

Perhaps most impressively, none of the recipes look outright "healthy" in the way that many so-called diet books do. There's no hit-you-over-the-head selling of a lifestyle, even as Murnane is the embodiment of a plant-based life by necessity. But ultimately, she's not here to convert you -- just encourage you to try going one part plant, one meal at a time.

Food on 03/22/2017

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