Birch water is latest fad to sap wallets

Yesterday's sparkling water is today's coconut water is tomorrow's ... birch tree sap?

Birch water, a waterlike sap tapped from birch trees, is the latest beverage to join an alternate water market that accounted for about $2.7 billion in sales worldwide in 2016, according to food and beverage consultancy firm Zenith Global.

The lure of the slightly sweet beverage is its mineral content, in addition to its lower-sugar content than coconut water, says John Kavchak, the co-founder and director of Sapp, a Chicago- and New York-based company that sells birch water in the United States.

"It's arguably the lowest-sugar plant-based beverage," he says of birch water. "It's rich in minerals and antioxidants, and it's been used for centuries in Scandinavia and Eastern Europe as a natural source of detox."

Birch water contains a high level of manganese, a mineral that helps blood sugar regulation and bone structure through calcium absorption, according to the University of Maryland Medical Center. Manganese is a component of the antioxidant enzyme superoxide dismutase, an enzyme that helps fight naturally occurring free radicals that "can damage cell membranes and DNA," according to the university.

Kavchak is quick to point out that birch water isn't a miracle tonic.

"I like to say it's more than regular water, but it's only an addition to your drinking occasions," he says. "We're not trying to sell this as medicine. Our goal is to sell a beverage that is hydrating and has health benefits."

Though birch water contains five times the amount of manganese as kale, according to Sapp, its price point -- $3.49 per bottle of Sapp and more than $40 for a 12-pack of Byarozavik on Amazon -- is something to consider, says Kristin A.R. Gustashaw, an advanced-level clinical dietitian at Chicago's Rush University Medical Center.

"As far as the amazing qualities of birch water, it's actually not much different from what you can get in oats," Gustashaw says. "When you look at the cost of a serving of birch water against the cost of a cup of oats, oats are a fraction of the cost. You can get the same or a similar amount of manganese from oats at an estimate of 20 or 21 cents versus $3.50 for the same amount of manganese from birch water.

"It's an expensive source of one nutrient that they're advocating."

A large part of that cost stems from the process of tapping and preserving birch sap, which can expire within days if not cared for, Kavchak says. There is only a three- or four-week period in April when the trees can be tapped, he says.

Not all tree waters are the same. Maple water shares similarities with birch water but has a different mineral profile and a higher natural sugar content while lacking birch water's trace amounts of xylitol, a natural sugar alcohol that can help prevent tooth decay by inhibiting the growth of Streptococcus mutans, a bacteria that causes cavities, according to the California Dental Association. And Byarozavik, for example, adds organic cane sugar to its birch water.

While Sapp's original flavor does not have additives, except less than 1 percent of citric acid, the company offers birch water flavored with nettle and rose hip, which respectively support kidney functioning and the immune system.

Those additives can become too much of a good thing if you're not careful, Gustashaw says, and could pose a risk for pregnant women and people taking blood pressure medication.

Style on 05/16/2017

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