MALE CALL

For dressing down, right jeans can be a perfect fit

Q. Is there a dressiness level for dress-down Fridays for jeans? Are black jeans more professional and how about dark blue vs. faded?

A. Yes, even within the rather narrow category of "jeans," there is a hierarchy of more and less dressy. Denim isn't as basic as you might think. A few elements affect this sliding scale from most dressy to most casual. The most obvious element is color; others have to do with fit, condition and go-withs.

Color -- The dressiest jeans are the darkest ones, such as black and dark blue/indigo. As the color gets lighter -- such as medium-blue, light-blue and white -- jeans become more casual. Dark-wash jeans are dressed up enough for wearing with a sports coat for some casual-business offices.

Fit -- Jeans vary enormously as to fit and cut. One person''s style preference can be miles apart from another's, and styles may change every few years. Super skinny fits come and go in popularity, but are probably never appropriate for business wear. Straight-leg designs are important to many guys and are generally the safest choice. For some, the worst thing you could say about his choice of full-cut denims is that they are "Dad jeans." Each guy has his own opinion about which is the best look.

Condition -- This element has to do with several options: 1. new and pristine; 2. faded washes and denim treated with bleach; 3. whole or ripped; and 4. well-pressed or wrinkled. My strong feeling is that the only jeans that qualify as professional enough for a business environment are not faded, not bleached, not ripped and not wrinkled.

Price -- For some reason that is hard to understand, jeans can range in price from $19.99 bargains to a Dolce & Gabbana designer style for $2,775 from Neiman Marcus (free shipping)! In truth, my guess is that most people could not pick out which ones were which ... without consulting the price label. Jeans do not need to be expensive to be office-worthy.

Go-withs -- The rest of your clothing can upgrade the jeans, accent their nonprofessionalism, or just not work together. The tops and other items you match up with your jeans should be appropriately compatible, not only with each other, but also with the setting. As examples: dark, well-ironed jeans could support an Oxford cloth business shirt and maybe even a blazer. Ripped and faded light-blue jeans could match up with a sweatshirt or super-casual hoodie (but not in an office). In between these two extremes are dozens of variations on the theme of medium-blue jeans worn with short-sleeved polo shirts, long-sleeved flannel shirts, sport shirts, sweaters, windbreakers, and other casual jackets. You would be wise to give some extra thought to which of these are formal enough to work in your business setting.

Another jeans go-with to consider is your choice of shoes. Again, be sure to keep all elements compatible. The possible range is huge, everything from sneakers and moccasins, to deck shoes, boots, loafers, on up to not-too-formal dressy shoes. Not only would I skip sneakers for business, but I'd also avoid most cap-toe and wing tip lace-ups as a step (or several steps) too elegant for jeans.

Some jeans are strictly seasonal. White jeans are reserved for spring and summer wear and can work well on a company retreat or off-site casual meeting. I have seen white jeans paired with a navy blazer for a handsome warm-weather combination; but they are really a social Sunday afternoon party look, not what to wear to the office on Fridays.

As long as your office is comfortable with, and accepts, jeans, the most professional look would be a well-pressed pair in either black or dark blue, in like-new condition, without any signs of rips or fading. And they should fit as well as a good pair of dress trousers. Keep in mind that there really is a dress code for dressing down.

Send your fashion questions to Male Call:

Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net

High Profile on 11/19/2017

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