MALE CALL

Belts should run larger than waist size of pants

Q My weight fluctuates about 20 pounds, depending on the time of year. (It's actually not that big a deal, I'm tall and it's mostly about seasonal eating always coming at the same time, when I don't have time for exercise.) The question is whether my belts that keep switching from the middle hole to the last hole is a problem?

A The answer has a lot to do with whether or not it bothers you. Most people would not notice it. Some might suggest buying belts in two sizes so you can alternate between them.

My strong guess is that your belts are too small in the first place. Men often discover that the belts they have bought are too tight. For some unknown reason, manufacturers size belts rather strangely; you must move up one size from your actual waist measurement (your pants size) when buying a belt. Belts come in even sizes only: 32, 34, 36, etc. Thus, if your waist measures 34 or 35 inches, your belt size should be 36. While this may be difficult for a man's vanity to handle, it is reality.

Although most men dislike shopping and avoid at all costs actually trying clothes on, it is important to try on a dress belt in the store and choose one that fits you comfortably when buckled through the middle hole. Wearing a belt that is so tight that the prong fits in the last hole is a sure sign the belt is too small. When fastened, the tail end of the belt strap should extend a few inches past the buckle. If there is not enough strap length, it can sometimes push the jacket out a bit and create a bulge rather than a smooth fit. With your small weight fluctuations, a belt that is the right size when you buy it would not be so small -- even when you are at your heaviest -- to necessitate inserting the prong into the last hole.

One way to deal with the problem is to punch another hole. Make sure there is enough of the leather strap to come through the buckle and go under the belt loop.

The belt is not the only men's how-to-dress problem that accompanies weight gain. In addition to the obvious too-tight trousers that may need altering, often, there is yet another fit problem: trousers can become too short as well. This is not so easy to adjust. And for those putting on more than your 20-pound weight gain, the shirt collar size can easily move up by half an inch or one inch, requiring new shirts. Sometimes, a large weight gain can even affect a man's shoe size.

Some things don't change. Here are a few fool-the-eye tricks that men who are too heavy can use to look thinner. Focus interest and attention on your face by wearing compellingly interesting shirts and ties. Create the illusion of slimness by using vertical lines when possible. Dark colors can make you appear 10 to 15 pounds lighter.

Suit features to look for:

• Striped suits with closely-spaced stripes.

• Single-breasted suits and jackets.

Fabrics to select:

• Medium to light weights. Avoid bulky fabrics.

• Smooth textures.

Cool, muted and dark colors.

• Simple patterns. Avoid "busy" patterns such as bold plaids, which add bulk visually.

• Blazers and trousers of nearly matching or similar tones. Avoid sharp color contrasts.

Other garments:

Wear button-down and straight-point collared shirts. Avoid the horizontal lines of wide-spread collars.

Choose vertically striped dress and sport shirts. Avoid horizontal stripes.

Please send men's fashion queries to MALE CALL:

Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net

High Profile on 02/18/2018

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