Co-owners of a soon-to-open diner in Little Rock’s burgeoning East Village say their eatery is a mashup of sweet and savory — a concept reflected in its equally divided kitchen.
On Friday morning, in celebration of National Doughnut Day, head baker Kelli Marks made several batches of assorted doughnuts in a newly broken-in fryer at Cathead’s Diner.
They were soon coated with an array of toppings like a strawberry glaze, salted caramel, chocolate ganache and sprinkles.
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Photos by Brandon Riddle
Photos by Brandon Riddle
Early previews for the eatery had the concoctions prominently featured on its social media accounts. Among them: a sweet-and-savory pulled pork doughnut sandwich.
“Meat lovers donut? Turtle donut? Cereal milk?” Cathead’s also propositioned.
But the Southern-inspired menu also features savory comfort food, including a biscuit variety that carries the restaurant’s name: cathead, referring to one about the size of a cat’s head.
"I'd say biscuits and fried chicken are really our signature," chef partner Donnie Ferneau said. Other items include barbecue, half roasted-chicken and beef tenderloin as well as a variety of rotating side items.
Ferneau said the Cathead’s project inside the Paint Factory building, 515 Shall Ave., offered him a “newfound passion” in which to grow.
"I found my happiness behind a smoker and making family meals," the chef said, referencing the diner’s family-style cooking approach.
Work on the restaurant has been ongoing since at least October, and a tentative June 13 opening has been set.
“If I'm going to do something, people have the expectation that it has to be done right,” Ferneau said.
He previously worked as executive chef at The 1836 Club and owner of Good Food by Ferneau, and appeared on Food Network’s The Great Food Truck Race.
For now, the eatery is set to focus on breakfast and lunch as well as a Sunday brunch, Ferneau said. Hours will be 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
A “hot line” will allow lunchtime patrons to flow in and grab a quick bite to eat.
“We took the buffet mentality between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. for lunch and made it quick but scratch-made,” Ferneau said.
Sunday brunch offerings are tentatively set to include a buffet, champagne cocktails and an espresso bar.
Marks said she and Ferneau have not necessarily been reinventing themselves but have rather found ways to mesh their previous work into a singular eatery.
"It's scratch-driven, chef-made," Marks said of the concept.
"It's everything that your grandmother wanted to have," Ferneau chimed in. "There's a lot of love that goes into everything."