Q I emailed you last year about ways to eradicate the lespedeza weed from our centipede grass. We followed the procedure with Weed B Gon; however, our spring where we live was so wet that by the time we could get into our yard to spray, it was getting late in the spring. Once the rain stopped, the hotter-than-90-degree days hit hard. As a result, we were only able to do one application and couldn't do the second one 30 days later for fear of distressing the grass. We knocked it back a bit, but with the heat and humidity it thrived in the summer. My question is, once we're below 90 degrees this fall, would we be able to do the treatment, or does this have to be completed in the spring only? We were wondering if we could treat it this fall and then follow protocol next spring as well.
A I would definitely try a fall application as the lespedeza is happy and healthy right now.
Q I have fire ants in my raised bed and I don't want to use poison. What to do?
A Fire ants have been awful this summer. Unfortunately, fire ant baits and insecticides are the best method of control. There are quite a few home remedies for killing fire ants, and some work better than others. Keep in mind that if you don't get all the ants, they just move and set up housekeeping nearby, so beware. Some methods -- from grits to vinegar -- are not effective, but you can gain about 60 percent control by pouring boiling water on the mound. You do need to be careful that you don't burn yourself. You also can try pouring a warm, soapy solution on the mound. One method currently being evaluated and showing some promise as an effective home remedy is an ant mound drench using a mixture of dishwashing liquid and citrus oil. Mix 1.5 ounces of orange oil and 3 ounces of Dawn liquid detergent into 1 gallon of water. For any of these water drenches, apply as a mound drench during early morning or late afternoon, which is when the fire ants are most likely to be home. Whatever you use, pay attention to where you stand and how long you stand there as fire ants attack with little provocation and their stings are painful.
Q I'm moving from Fayetteville to Little Rock at the end of December to middle of January. I have a large number of plants (300) I've potted to take with me -- including lilac bushes, rose mallow, asparagus, blueberries, irises, daylilies, daffodils and lily bulbs. Right now I have them sitting around outside. I presume I should move them into my garage before hard freezes start, but I've never stored plants in the garage before. Do I water them? Surely the ones that are evergreen (such as jessamine) would need water, but what about ones that go dormant (like the lilacs)? And how quickly can I start getting them into the ground at the new place? Do I wait until weather starts warming up in spring, or can I plant in January? The move has taken longer than anticipated and I had planned to have all plants in the ground at the new place by now, so any suggestions would be appreciated.
A Wow, do you have your work cut out for you once you move. These hardy plants would be happiest replanted as soon as you can, but a lot will depend on the weather. If we are having a mild winter and you can plant, then get them in the ground ASAP. If we have bad winter weather, you will have to wait until suitable planting weather. The dormant period -- November through February -- is the ideal time to transplant trees and shrubs. Daffodils need to be chilled, so leave them outside if you can -- in soil, hopefully. If you have a protected outdoor spot next to your house or under a tree where you can group all the plants together and mulch around them, that would be ideal. Water prior to a hard freeze to make sure there is ample moisture in the plants. If you give them too much protection -- say in a garage -- you would need to harden them off before planting outside. Good luck.
Q Can I overwinter Mexican Petunia in a medium pot near Arkadelphia?
A There are two common species of Mexican petunia or Ruellia. The hardier one is the taller and somewhat invasive purple species -- Ruellia simplex. I would think it would overwinter just fine without added protection. The dwarf ruellia -- Ruellia "Katie" -- comes in pink, purple or white and is less hardy. Winter hardiness in a container depends on several variables, including the type of container, its size and exposure to harsh elements. I have a few plants in pots that are marginally winter hardy, and I tuck their pots between my shrubs and my house as winter weather sets in. Then I pile some leaves around the base. I have had great luck doing this.
Q My family was given a start of this plant several years ago by an elderly gentleman who lived somewhere north of Conway. The gentleman stated that he had taken a sample to a nursery, but they were unable to identify this plant. We would appreciate your help in identifying it [the reader sent a photo]. It can grow up to 6 feet tall as well as 6 feet wide.
A The plant in question is a bush lespedeza or bush clover. It looks like Lespedeza thunbergii. It is a beautiful, deciduous shrub that can die back to the ground in a cold winter, but usually survives. Occasionally you will have blooms in midsummer, but it usually shines in the late summer/fall garden. It is gorgeous in bloom.
Janet B. Carson is a horticulture specialist for the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. Write to her at 2301 S. University Ave., Little Rock, Ark. 72204 or email her at
jcarson@arkansasonline.com
HomeStyle on 10/20/2018