MALE CALL

Polos, turtlenecks under a jacket good for office casual

Q My husband has a new job as a department manager in a plant, essentially quasi-corporate in a very plaid-shirt-and-jeans company. I think his best look depending upon the weather is polos and turtlenecks under jackets. Can you tell me or him where those fit in terms of professionalism?

A A lot has to do with the business, industry and specific company where he works. Also, he needs to consider the people he interacts with at his plant and whether his work is also with others outside that group, such as clients and banks; if they are dressed up or down, his look must reflect how he should appear to them. Did he have a predecessor in the position and/or are there parallel managers and how do they dress? Of course, if he thinks they dress(ed) inappropriately or wants a different effect, that needs to be taken into his consideration.

I do think you are right in thinking that this look says that the guy who is wearing it is a bit more dressed up because he is "in charge." Wearing a polo shirt or turtleneck very nicely eliminates the concern of whether to wear a necktie. (Obviously, never with either one of those.) But, in terms of professionalism, the look does allow for a wide range of professionalism/dressiness.

He can combine those shirts with every level of jacket from the most super-casual cropped windbreaker (which might in some situations actually be too casual) to a nice hefty wool tweed or a slightly dressier windowpane plaid sports coat, or a solid gray or camel wool sports jacket, on up to the most dressy, a navy blazer. Other jacket fabrics work in warm weather: for example, cotton seersucker or a cotton/silk combination with a bit of texture. The jackets should not be too bold or attention-grabbing, however the shirts can range across the board from white to black and can include every pastel shade and brights in solids or stripes.

A polo/turtleneck layered under a jacket works with all variations of pants from casual khakis to dressier solid or patterned wool pants and also with well-tailored and pressed dark dress trousers in tan, gray, black or navy. It also looks good with jeans, but I strongly recommend that your husband avoid wearing jeans to work and reserve that combination for away from work social occasions such as family dinners out and kids' soccer matches. You mention that those he is supervising wear jeans, and combining this look with jeans gives more an impression of trying to be two things (or trying to be cool to his crew) than being some acceptable transition.

He is a manager, and he most definitely should keep some good shirt and tie combinations in his closet in case it comes up that he needs to look more "executive" when going to meetings, conferences and dinners with other businessmen or clients. Otherwise, this look is almost always a safe choice and not just for him. It is good for almost every type of man, for all weights and ages. It looks professional while still fitting that comfort factor that many men seem to be obsessed with. I honestly cannot think of any man's body type or age that this look is bad for ... with only one exception. Some men with short or heavy necks are not comfortable wearing a turtleneck.

Since it is more of a casual appearance than a dressy one, he should combine it with accessories that are more on the casual side, rather than dressy. Shoes can include deck shoes, slip-on loafers, perhaps the new darker and dressier sneakers, even cap-toed leather shoes, but not anything as dressy as leather wingtips. Most shoes in the brown family, especially slip-on styles, work well with a casual combination; black leather shoes tend to have a dressier vibe.

The nice thing about all of these clothes is that they can be worn in so many different settings. They don't need to be saved for work, but they can cross over and take a man pretty much wherever he wants to go. That also leads to the only problem I see with all of this advice: it could end up being too much of the same thing and get boring. Clothes should help express a man's personality and individuality. Once in a while, he just might decide to dress up a bit. Perhaps wear a blue-and-white striped business shirt with a nice single-breasted blue blazer. If he wears the shirt open-at-the-neck with one or two buttons unfastened and pairs the blazer with something less preppy than gray flannels, he will still be going tieless, looking casual, and yet people will know he is in charge.

Please send your men's dress and grooming questions to MALE CALL:

Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net

High Profile on 05/05/2019

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