Gazing up at the tallest hills in the Ozarks, it appeared a fall foliage float on the Buffalo National River would only be a show of browns and greens.
The first week of November is often the peak of autumn color, but a trio of river runners didn't expect much, as if the red, orange and yellow crayons were missing from the box.
Buffalo National River
The floatable portion of the Buffalo National River is the 135 miles from Ponca to Buffalo City, where the Buffalo flows into the White River.
Experienced white-water paddlers sometimes float the Buffalo above Ponca during high water. Hiking and elk watching are popular off-river activities.
The Buffalo became the nation’s first national river when President Richard Nixon signed legislation in 1972. That came after a long effort led by The Ozark Society to keep dams from being built along the Buffalo.
Source: Staff report
Still, excitement reigned at the Ponca low-water bridge launch site. Anytime the Buffalo is right for a 10.6-mile float from the bridge to Kyle's Landing is time for a celebration, as it was Nov. 4.
The floatable portion of the Buffalo National River is the 135 miles from Ponca to Buffalo City, where the Buffalo flows into the White River.
A surprise awaited the paddlers on this trip. Along the shores of the storied Buffalo, low-land trees showed off leaves of bright yellow, orange and crimson. One would have thought the river rats were watching Fourth of July fireworks with the oohs and aahs coming from their canoes.
Wherever the meandering national river curved south, sunshine back-lit trees in a blazing color show that'd fill a calendar's pages.
The Buffalo has done a jack-in-the-box act this autumn of crazy weather. All-day rain pops the river level into flood stage over a matter of hours. The clear, turquoise water drops back into its river-channel cradle, only to rise again with the next rain.
Crazy. Tornadoes in October. Morning temps of 12 degrees, and it's not even Thanksgiving.
A cozy rental cabin near Boxley was base camp for three days of hiking, biking and floating in the Buffalo River country. A favorite website revealed the Buffalo was low but floatable in the Ponca area on Nov. 4. The paddlers expected a rocky, low-flow ride, but were pleasantly surprised at the ample water. The flow looked more moderate than low in their eyes.
Float the popular Ponca to Kyle's stretch during spring and there'll be plenty of company. Outfitters advise reserving boats in advance in springtime, the demand is so great.
On this fall foliage float, the trio had the river to themselves. Three kayakers launched ahead of them at the Ponca bridge, but they disappeared around the bend in a whip stitch. Nary a soul, not another boat, was seen the entire way to Kyle's.
Paddlers can get a crick in the neck staring up at the lofty tops of bluffs, which cradle the Buffalo at every turn. That's true any season. These crags are at their best in the fall when they frame red maples and yellow hickories.
The glorious Buffalo put on a colorful show after all.
Sports on 11/19/2019