When Washington state began growing grapes for wine production, it was considered too cool for most red wines. And thus, it became an acclaimed region for showcasing American Riesling and chardonnay.
Unlike many wine regions that have had centuries to evolve terroir structure, Washington may be at a crossroads. As the industry saw the demand for red wines, the planting of cabernet sauvignon and syrah started to pass those of white grapes. These plantings were not only successful but excelled. By 2013, Washington's grape production was dominated by reds.
When researching this column, I found an interesting explanation of the reasoning behind red wines domination. I found it may have been from what is known as the "White Wine Paradox." Washington has long experienced this paradox. The paradox is simple: White wines don't command as high a price as their red counterparts. Because of this, white wine grapes are more difficult to grow for profit, and thus many white wine grapes don't receive the same care during the growing season as red wine grapes. And even though the resulting wines are not inferior, they simply don't get as much attention.
But in recent years, many winemakers are re-thinking their left behind plantings of white varietals and an increasing number of wineries are giving renewed focus to white wines. If you taste any of these wines you'll easily understand why. This region's terroir can make stellar whites.
Many growers have started improving on site selections for white grapes, growing at higher elevations on northern slopes that allow for longer hang time and flavor development. Farming has also evolved with more attention to white grape plantings regarding sun exposure and crop load.
So, what does this mean for us? Lots of exciting homework on white wines from Washington state to be explored!
THE VALUES
2017 14 Hands Winery Pinot Grigio, Washington (about $11 retail)
2018 Barter & Trade Sauvignon Blanc, Washington (about $14 retail)
2018 Charles Smith Eve Chardonnay, Washington (about $15 retail)
2018 Covey Run Riesling, Washington (about $9 retail)
2018 Snoqualmie Naked Riesling, Washington (about $14 retail)
2018 Hogue Cellars Riesling, Washington (about $11 retail)
2018 Chateau Ste Michelle Sauvignon Blanc, Washington (about $14 retail)
2018 Columbia Crest Grand Estate Chardonnay, Washington (about $12 retail)
THE SPLURGES
2017 L'Ecole Sauvignon Blanc, Washington (about $22 retail)
2017 Savage Grace Chardonnay, Washington (about $30 retail)
2018 Gilbert Cellars Rose, Washington (about $20 retail)
2017 Woodward Canyon Chardonnay, Washington (about $44 retail)
Lorri Hambuchen is a member of London's Institute of Wines and Spirits. Contact her at the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, P.O. Box 2221, Little Rock, AR 72203, or email:
uncorked@thewinecenter.com
Food on 04/01/2020