PAMPLONA, Colombia -- After months of coronavirus lockdowns that halted one of the world's biggest migration movements in recent years, Venezuelans are once again fleeing their nation's economic and humanitarian crisis.
Though the number of people leaving is smaller than at the height of the Venezuelan exodus, Colombian immigration officials expect 200,000 Venezuelans to enter the country in the months ahead, enticed by the prospects of earning higher wages and sending money back to Venezuela to feed their families.
The new migrants are encountering decidedly more adverse conditions than those who fled their homeland before the pandemic. Shelters remain closed, drivers are more reluctant to pick up hitchhikers and locals who fear contagion are less likely to help out with food donations.
"We hardly got any lifts along the way," said Anahir Montilla, a cook from the Venezuelan state of Guarico who was approaching Colombia's capital after traveling with her family for 27 days.
Before the pandemic, more than 5 million Venezuelans had left their country, according to the United Nations. The poorest left on foot, walking through a terrain that is often scorching but can also get frigidly cold.
As governments across South America shut down their economies in hopes of stopping the spread of the virus, many migrants found themselves without work. More than 100,000 Venezuelans returned to their country, where at least they would have shelter.
Today, official land and bridge crossings into Colombia are still closed, compelling migrants to flee through illegal pathways along the porous 1,370-mile border with Venezuela. The dirt roads are controlled by violent drug trafficking groups and rebel organizations like the National Liberation Army.
"The return of Venezuelan migrants is already happening even though the border is closed," said Ana Milena Guerrero, an official for the International Rescue Committee, a humanitarian nonprofit organization helping migrants.
What's more, many are now forced to walk within their own country for days to reach the border because of gas shortages that have diminished transportation between cities.
Once in Colombia, the migrants typically walk along highways or wait to hitch a ride. But that's also become harder.
"It's been very tough," said Montilla, who was still 200 miles away from her final destination. "But at least with a job in Colombia, we can afford new shoes and clothes. We couldn't do that in Venezuela."
One lengthy stretch of road connecting the border city of Cucuta to Bucaramanga farther inland used to be home to 11 shelters for migrants. Most have been ordered to close by municipal governments trying to contain coronavirus infections.
Before the pandemic broke out, Douglas Cabeza had turned a shed next to his house in Pamplona into a shelter that housed up to 200 migrants a night. Now he lends gym mattresses to those sleeping outside, hoping to provide them with some protection from the cold.
Once the migrants reach their destination, a new list of worries sets in. Colombia's unemployment rate rose from 12% in March to almost 16% in August. Those who can't afford to pay rent are being evicted from their homes. Further complicating matters, more than half of all Venezuelans in Colombia have no legal status.
Still, for many, the prospect of earning even less than the minimum wage is a boost. Colombia's monthly minimum wage is currently worth around $260, far higher than Venezuela's measly $2.
Eleazar Hernandez was working as a street vendor in Venezuela, selling cakes baked by his wife. But money for food was becoming increasingly scarce, which prompted the couple to make the 860-mile journey to Medellin.
The 23-year-old was trying to make it to the Colombian city of Medellin with his wife, who is seven months pregnant.
