Mon Dieu! Bread prices rise

French baguette is a barometer that’s sounding an alarm

Baker Hugo Hardy prepares baguettes to be sold at Bigot bakery in Versailles, west of Paris, Tuesday, Oct. 26, 2021. A worldwide increase in wheat prices after bad harvests in Russia is forcing French bakers to raise the price of that staple of life in France the baguette. Boulangeries around France have begun putting up signs warning their customers of an increase in the price of their favorite bread due to rising costs. (AP Photo/Michel Euler
Baker Hugo Hardy prepares baguettes to be sold at Bigot bakery in Versailles, west of Paris, Tuesday, Oct. 26, 2021. A worldwide increase in wheat prices after bad harvests in Russia is forcing French bakers to raise the price of that staple of life in France the baguette. Boulangeries around France have begun putting up signs warning their customers of an increase in the price of their favorite bread due to rising costs. (AP Photo/Michel Euler

PARIS -- The rising the cost of wheat is alarming French households that fear a possible rise in the price of the prized baguette, seen by many as a barometer of the country's economic health.

Many boulangeries around France are putting up signs warning customers that the long, crunchy staple could be going up in price by 3 to 5 centimes (4 to 6 cents), from its average of about 89 centimes (just over $1).

"Although that might not seem like a lot, it's a huge increase. The baguette is precious. It has only gone up 23 centimes in the last 20 years," said Dominique Anract, president of the French Confederation of Bakeries and Pastry Shops.

The bread industry crunch has been linked to a 30% worldwide increase since September in the price of wheat -- one of the baguette's key ingredients -- after bad harvests in Russia, Anract said. Rising energy prices that are making ovens more expensive to operate are also a factor, Anract and other experts say, with businesses and consumers worldwide already feeling the heat of higher prices from supply chain and labor constraints.

France's 67 million people are voracious consumers of the baguette. The country's "Bread Observatory" -- a venerable institution that closely follows the fortunes of the famed 26-inch loaf -- notes that the French munch through 320 baguettes every second. That's an average of half a baguette per person per day and 10 billion every year.

"Even three centimes higher is dire when played out nationwide," Anract said. "The baguette is our emblem, our symbol, the thermometer of our economy. It's perhaps like Britain's pint of milk."

Although the baguette seems like the quintessential French product, it was said to have been invented by Vienna-born baker August Zang in 1839. He put in place France's steam oven, making it possible to produce bread with a brittle crust yet a fluffy interior.

The product's zenith did not come until the 1920s, with the advent of a French law preventing bakers from working before 4 a.m. The baguette's long, thin shape meant it could be made more quickly than its stodgy cousins, so it was the only bread that bakers could make in time for breakfast.

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