Editor's note: A version of this column originally ran Aug. 17, 2016.
Albarino is one of the most distinctive white wine grapes in Spain. Its home is in Galicia, located in Spain's rainy northwest corner, and in Portugal's Vinho Verde region. In the past, the juice from this grape was usually blended with local grapes unfamiliar in the U.S. market such as loureiro, godello, arinto or treixadura. In the 1980s, this grape's full potential became reality, and producers began bottling this intensely aromatic wine on its own. It is refreshingly acidic and showcases aromas and tastes of peaches, apricots and almonds. The best versions of this grape come from the Rias Baixas region in Spain.
Vernaccia is a grape variety from Italy's Tuscany region. Most of us are unfamiliar with this wine, and few even know it's a grape. Wine from the Vernaccia grape was the first to be awarded DOC (Denominazione Origine Controllata, a quality assurance label for Italian products) status in 1966, before even the familiar and famous regions of Barolo and Brunello. This says a lot for a little known "other" on a wine list or retail shelf. This wine is refreshing, with a crisp acidity and a medium- to full-bodied style. Vernaccia is known for its abundance of flavors, the most common being white fruit, citrus and almond.
Portugal's Vinho Verde is fresh, lively, zingy, zesty and bargain-priced. Vinho Verde wines are traditionally made from an unfamiliar listing of local grapes including azal, loureiro, arinto and treixadura. Vinho Verde is the largest of the regulated wine regions stretching from the Spanish border to south of Oporto on the Atlantic coast.
THE VALUES
2018 Lago Vinho Verde, Spain (about $8 retail)
2018 Famega Vinho Verde, Spain (about $14 retail)
2018 Neboa Rias Baixas Albarino, Spain (about $15 retail)
THE SPLURGES
2018 Rocca delle Macie Vernaccia, Italy (about $19 retail)
2018 La Cana Albarino, Spain (about $22 retail)
2018 As Laxas Albarino, Spain (about $19 retail)
2018 Klinker Brick Albarino, California (about $17 retail)
Lorri Hambuchen is a member of London's Institute of Wines and Spirits. Contact her at the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, P.O. Box 2221, Little Rock, AR 72203, or email:
uncorked@thewinecenter.com
Food on 10/23/2019