Cooking with diabetes

Grill your eggplant for soft, smoky fare

For The Washington Post/STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG Turkish-Style Grilled Eggplant Salad
For The Washington Post/STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG Turkish-Style Grilled Eggplant Salad

Cooking eggplant in this primal way — putting the uncut vegetable directly on the grill grates — always excites me. It's not just the fun of the cooking itself — watching the flame gradually morph the firm, shiny eggplant, softening and charring it to the point of collapse — it's the thrill of the smoky flavor that develops as a result. That flavor is a defining element of many Mediterranean eggplant salads, including those typical of Turkish cuisine, which inspired this recipe.

Once the eggplant is cooked (either on the grill or directly on the grates of a gas stove) and cooled, the flesh separates easily from the blackened skin. (Note that the cooking time can vary considerably depending on the density and variety of the vegetable. You know it's done when it has started bubbling and has collapsed.)

When chopped, the eggplant loses most of its shape leaving a silky, somewhat creamy, smoky base for a late summer salad. Here it is seasoned with a little garlic and tossed with chopped tomato, bell pepper, red onion, parsley, lemon and olive oil for a fresh but sumptuous side, or as part of a mezze spread.

Turkish-Style Grilled Eggplant Salad

2 medium globe eggplants (about 14 ounces each)

1 clove garlic, minced

½ teaspoon kosher salt, or more as needed

1 large tomato, seeded and chopped

1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped

Leaves from 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped

¼ cup chopped medium red onion

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or more as needed

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Ground black pepper, to taste

Heat a grill on medium-high heat; lightly oil the grates. Place the whole eggplants on the grill and cook, turning them several times with tongs, until the skin is charred and blistered all around, the eggplants have collapsed, and their juices begin to bubble. Depending on the density of your eggplants, this can take between 15 and 50 minutes. (If using the stove, place a piece of foil around the burner, place the eggplants directly on the grates of the burner over medium-high heat and cook as instructed above.) Transfer the eggplants to a colander set over a bowl to drain for about 15 minutes, until they are cool enough to handle.

While the eggplant cools, place the minced garlic in a small mound on a cutting board and sprinkle it with the salt. Use the flat edge of a knife to work the garlic and salt together to form a paste.

Discard the eggplant stems and use your fingers (or a paring knife) to peel off and discard the skin. (It's OK if some bits of charred skin remain.) Coarsely chop the eggplant (it will be soft; the pieces won't be clearly defined) and place into a medium mixing bowl. Add the tomato, pepper, parsley, onion, lemon juice, oil, pepper and the garlic paste, stirring gently to incorporate. Taste, add more salt, pepper and/or lemon juice, as needed.

Serve right away.

Makes about 6 servings.

Nutrition information: Each serving contains approximately 70 calories, 2 g protein, 3 g fat, 11 g carbohydrate (6 g sugar), no cholesterol, 100 mg sodium and 5 g fiber.

Carbohydrate choices: 1.

(From nutritionist and cookbook author Ellie Krieger)

Food on 09/11/2019

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