Opinion

UNCORKED: Get off the beaten path to avoid white wine rut

Illustration by Kelly Brant
Illustration by Kelly Brant

Usually this time of year I find readers settling into the white wine rut. It's understandable, considering most of us are simply looking for cool, refreshing wines to tame the at times unbearable summer heat. The key to avoiding the rut is trying new wines and discovering new flavors. This week's column steps off the beaten path to highlight some of the most alluring white wines in the world hidden behind often confusing labels.

SOAVE (ITALY)

Soave works for summer for many reasons but the relative low alcohol (usually around 12%) and its light-bodied refreshing taste make it an easy choice. For many years consumers thought of Soave as a straightforward, almost bland wine. But today there is an emphasis on quality and we are seeing an array of choices from producers bottling excellent wines. Look for "Classico" on the label. This lets you know it was produced in the heartland of Veneto using the traditional expression of the Garganega grape. The law stipulates Classico wines must include at least 70% Garganega with the other 30% a blend of chardonnay, trebbiano di Soave and pinot blanc.

ENTRE-DEUX-MERS BORDEAUX (FRANCE)

These aromatic wines are mostly made with sauvignon blanc, semillon and a small addition of ugni blanc and muscadelle. At its best it tastes zippy and refreshing with layers of distinct aromas of lemon, lime and fresh cut grass. This is a large growing area with varying prices and quality. The good news for the wine consumer is most bottles showing up in our market are here because they are those on the top of quality.

ALSACE (FRANCE)

Alsace is France's white wine secret and your summer white wine go-to. Alsace is very different from the rest of France when it comes to wine production. It sits in the Rhine River Valley leading into Germany. This close proximity brings many of the German traditions from winemaking and even grape varietals. Most of the wines are produced using Riesling, pinot gris and pinot blanc grapes. Don't be confused thinking you will find a sweet style German wine. The French have a unique touch making these wines aromatic, usually dry and bursting with refreshing lively acidity.

ORVIETO (ITALY)

Orvieto is made from the trebbiano grape and usually an array of other Italian whites will be mixed into the blend. In the past it was known as a sweet style of wine using grapes with nobel rot but most modern styles we find in the market are dry. This wine is ideal for summer heat with its light-bodied aromatic fresh citrus fruit taste.

THE VALUES

2018 Domaine Sainte-Anne Entre-Deux-Mers, France (about $13)

2018 Ruffino Orvieto Classico, Italy (about $12)

2018 Hugel Alsace Gentil, France (about $15 retail)

THE SPLURGES

2018 Trimbach Alsace Reserve Pinot Gris, France (about $28)

2018 Chateau Bonnet Blanc, Entre-Deux-Mers, France (about $16)

2018 Hugel Pinot Gris, Alsace, France (about $25)

2018 Tenuta Santa Maria Lepia Soave, Italy (about $18)

Lorri Hambuchen is a member of London's Institute of Wines and Spirits.

uncorked@thewinecenter.com

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