IN THE GARDEN: Janet Carson's advice for growing onions, fending off stripping squirrels and fighting fireblight

Q

Any suggestions on growing better onions this year? Our onions in our raised beds barely grew last year.

A

Onions are most commonly grown from sets or transplants. While you can use either and have success, many gardeners find the sets give them better results. Sets are the bags of small onion bulbs you see in nurseries and garden centers. They usually are sold as red, white or yellow. Sets or bulbs that are larger than a dime in diameter usually will not produce large dried onions, but can be used for green onions or small onions. Those that are smaller than a dime usually won't bolt as easily (sending up a flower stalk), and usually will produce larger bulbs, which can be stored longer. Transplants are those bundles of plants that have green tops. Both can be planted now through early April. All onions like good nutrition. Broadcast fertilizer into the bed at planting and side-dress every two to three weeks until close to harvest. Since you are using raised beds, I would assume the drainage is good. Incorporate some compost in the beds at planting and keep the plants watered and mulched.

Squirrels strip bark from thin-skinned trees; why isn't understood. (Special to the Democrat-Gazette/Janet B. Carson)
Squirrels strip bark from thin-skinned trees; why isn't understood. (Special to the Democrat-Gazette/Janet B. Carson)

Q

Our Japanese maple trees are being stripped of bark by squirrels. One is almost dead, the other is under attack. What can we do to address this problem? We hate to lose these beautiful trees.

A

There are several theories as to why squirrels strip bark off trees. It is believed that they use this bark to line their nests, or they are in need of certain minerals when they are pregnant, or they are sharpening their teeth. Regardless of why, they tend to go after thin-barked trees, with Japanese maples being one of their favorites. At this point, you can try using scare devices in the tree or wrap the areas where they are feeding lightly with a hardware cloth or chicken wire. This will deter them and hopefully, they will do their chewing elsewhere. For the damage that is done, just make sure the area is clean and has no dangling bark. Wound dressings and paints don't really help. How much permanent damage they do depends on how much of the bark they remove and the age and health of the trees. Bark is on the tree to protect the cambium layer, which supplies nutrients to the tree. A girdled trunk will kill the tree. If a branch is girdled it causes die-back. It can also serve as an entry point for other disease or insect problems. Good luck!

Fireblight shows up as dead or damaged branch tips. (Special to the Democrat-Gazette/Janet B. Carson)
Fireblight shows up as dead or damaged branch tips. (Special to the Democrat-Gazette/Janet B. Carson)

Q

Last year my Bradford pear tree had what was diagnosed as fireblight. The ends of all the branches looked black and droopy. I believe you wrote in your column a couple of years ago about something that can be sprayed on the trees in the spring to prevent fireblight. I have seen a few trees in the area that I think are starting to bloom. Could you please tell me again what you said to spray with and exactly when I should do this? I know you aren't a fan of Bradford pears, but it is the only shade tree in my yard and I would hate to have to start over.

A

Fireblight is a bacterial disease that is spread by bees and other insects when the tree is in bloom. You may notice some amber-colored oozing from infected branches. This liquid contains the bacteria, which can then be picked up and spread by insects and even rain. Some years fireblight is more prolific than others — we seem to have more in warmer, wet springs than in cool, dry ones. There are some preventive sprays that can help, but I will not guarantee they will prevent fireblight. Spray streptomycin or Agri-strep every three to five days when the trees are flowering. If you still see some fireblight symptoms — black, wilted leaves on the tips of the branches — then pruning out the damage and 6-8 inches below it is your best bet.

Retired after 38 years with the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service, Janet Carson ranks among Arkansas' best known horticulture experts. Her blog is at arkansasonline.com/planitjanet. Write to her at P.O. Box 2221, Little Rock, AR 72203 or email

jcarson@arkansasonline.com

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