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story.lead_photo.caption The McDonald's sign at its flagship store in Chicago, on July 22, 2019. (Bloomberg/Christopher Dilts)

In McDonald's Corp.'s push to make a fried-chicken sandwich that better competes with Chick-fil-A, it picked up something extra in the recipe: MSG, the flavor enhancer that has fans and foes.

The world's biggest restaurant chain is testing chicken sandwiches with monosodium glutamate, an ingredient that adds a savory taste but has also drawn health concerns from consumers. The additive is popping up in the new sandwich undergoing trials in Knoxville, Tenn., and Houston, as well as appearing at other locations in tests of sausage, soup bases and different crispy-chicken fillets.

Chicken is a big deal in fast food. Americans eat more of it each year than any other meat, and consumption is growing. McDonald's for years has tried to make a fried-chicken sandwich to rival Chick-fil-A, an Atlanta chain. Chick-fil-A also uses MSG in its classic chicken sandwich among other menu items, as does Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen, which last summer introduced a sandwich that sold out amid a social media frenzy.

"We are always listening to our customers regarding our menu offerings," a spokesman for McDonald's said in response to questions about its addition of MSG. Feedback and insights from the test will inform its future decisions, she said.

A representative for Chick-fil-A declined to comment. A spokesman for Popeyes confirmed that its new sandwich has MSG and declined to comment further on the ingredient.

Popeyes franchisee Carrols Restaurant Group Inc. said at a conference last week that the new sandwich was a game-changer for the brand, and at a peak some locations were selling as many as 1,100 a day.

MSG is a flavor enhancer that's been used for decades after commercial production started in the early 20th century. It's now commonly associated with takeout food, and processed soups and meats. While the ingredient is generally safe, according to the Food and Drug Administration, its use is controversial, and some people complain of side effects including headache, numbness and heart palpitations.

McDonald's currently does not use MSG in products on its national menu and lists ingredients in its national menu on its website, according to the company.

McDonald's customers in Houston and Knoxville have responded positively to the testing of its Crispy Chicken Sandwich and Deluxe Crispy Chicken sandwich, offered at more than 230 stores, according to the spokesman. The trial will continue for a few more weeks. It's also testing a Portuguese sausage and a soup base with added MSG in select locations in Hawaii, as well as more crispy chicken fillets in Augusta, Ga., and Seattle.

"We use real, quality ingredients to elevate the taste of our food so our customers all over the world can enjoy," McDonald's chief nutritionist Cindy Goody said in a statement. "We're passionate about our food and take great care to offer delicious, quality menu options to our customers that are produced and sourced in a responsible way."

In the past four years, the Chicago-based company has tried to clean up its ingredients, including removing artificial preservatives from its chicken nuggets. It's also moving its U.S. egg supply to cage-free chickens.

SundayMonday Business on 01/19/2020

Print Headline: McDonald's tests MSG in recipe


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