DEAR CAR TALK: I need advice on what kind of car to get. My 1992 Saturn is near its end. I rarely drive, since I walk, bike, e-bike or bus for most trips under 10 miles.
I would like a car for those trips of 10 miles or more, or at night or in the rain. That means I'll need the car once or twice a month.
As an environmentalist, I am strongly inclined to get an electric car. But I think that that may be a bad idea, since I read that batteries need to be used in order to retain their service life. Would you recommend an electric car for someone who only drives 20 to 50 miles twice a month?
A GEM would be perfect for 90% of my trips. But every once in a while, there will be a trip outside its range, or I would need to use a bridge or a tunnel that it is not allowed on. — Michelle
DEAR READER: Wow, you are a committed environmentalist.
It's not all the biking and e-biking that convinced me. It's that you'd actually consider a GEM, which is essentially a golf cart. That's commitment! I'd take that off your list. That's about the only thing you can buy that would be a downgrade from your '92 Saturn.
A real car will be much safer and more comfortable. Oh, and drier in the rain. I don't think I'd hesitate to buy an actual electric car (EV) if I were you, Michelle. I'm not aware of any problems with EV battery life diminishing from lack of use. Like most vehicles, they get worn out through use. So, generally speaking, the less you use it, the longer it should last.
And if your maximum trip is really 50 miles, you're a candidate for the least expensive EVs; the ones that have limited range. For instance, Mini makes a Cooper that only goes about 100 miles on a charge. That's a nonstarter for most people. But for you, that's more than enough. And it's not only fun to drive (and cute!), but it's reasonably priced. It starts at $30,000, before the $7,500 federal rebate and any state rebates you're entitled to.
Or you can look at a Kia Niro, Chevy Bolt, a Nissan Leaf or VW ID4 — all very nice, compact EVs that have more range than you'll typically need. And don't forget the best part of owning an electric vehicle. You can always plug it into your neighbor's outdoor outlet.
DEAR CAR TALK: My 2007 Honda Ridgeline has 123,000 miles on it. For more than a year, I've been trying to get a small oil leak repaired. My trusted local shop did a dye test and replaced the valve cover gaskets and plenum gasket. Still leaks. Then they replaced the oil pan gasket. Still leaks.
They resealed an "unknown bolt" only accessible by removing the passenger side axle. Still leaks.
They finally suggested I go to the Honda dealership to take advantage of their greater expertise. The dealership resealed the same "mystery bolt" for 2.5 times the cost with the same result. Still leaks.
The dealership now says it may be the oil pump ($1,500), which would include another oil pan gasket. My local shop won't quote a price as they don't believe the pump is the cause. I'm at $1,200 in futile repairs, but if I thought the oil pump replacement would be the cure, I'd go for it.
I'm getting tired of cardboard on the garage floor. What do you think? — Alvah
DEAR READER: I think the dealer is right. The leak is probably coming from the oil pump. The pump itself may actually be fine. But it's got a bunch of odd-shaped seals that are built into its machined openings, and those seals are what eventually leak. So the solution is to replace the pump.
If you don't know your way around this engine, it's easy to think that the oil pan is what's leaking. The leaky pump will actually let oil run down to the edge of the pan, so it mimics a bad oil pan gasket.
If your local guys had gone online and done some research, they probably would have figured that out and saved you a bunch of money. So I do fault them for not taking advantage of a resource that every mechanic ought to be using these days: the internet.
There's a lot of terrible information out there, too. No doubt. But when faced with a tricky problem, a savvy mechanic can weed through it and often find great clues in postings and YouTube videos from mechanics and even competent do-it-yourselfers.
So, I'd go back to those guys and say: "Hey, look. The dealership says it's the oil pump. How about you credit me for some of the work you already did and give me a break on the oil pump replacement?"
If they're as trusty as you say, they'll take some responsibility for the goose chase and adjust the price. I think they owe you a shot at fixing this correctly.
And by the way, getting to the oil pump requires removing the oil pan again (that's why you'll need another new gasket when they put it all back together), removing the timing belt, the belt tensioner and the water pump, too. So if you're due — or anywhere close to due — to replace those other parts, you might as well do them at the same time, since all you'll be paying for is the parts, and not additional labor.
But I think replacing the oil pump will solve both your current problems, Alvah — the oil leak and what to do with that $1,400 Joe Biden sent you.
Ray Magliozzi dispenses advice about cars in Car Talk every Saturday. Email him by visiting cartalk.com