No St. Patrick's Day feast, or any evening Irish meal for that matter, is complete without soda bread.
Irish soda bread, according to Foodtimeline.org, dates to the early- to mid-19th century when sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) was introduced. Earlier recipes relied on sourdough or barm from fermented ale for leavening.
And while most of us are familiar with the pale loaves studded with currants, there are countless variations on this yeast-free quick bread. The following recipes are just a few examples.
One thing they all have in common is a slash across the top before baking, usually in the form of a cross. For practical purposes this slash, known as scoring in the baking world, creates a controlled vent (the loaf will crack somewhere, you might as well get a say in where) allowing for more even cooking and a consistent rise. But there's more to it. In Irish lore, cutting a cross in the top of the loaf blesses the bread. Exactly what kind of blessing depends on whom you ask.
In the Darina Allen recipe below, Allen instructs cutting a deep cross "this is called 'blessing the bread' and then prick it in the center of the four sections to let the fairies out of the bread."
"We always follow the tradition of Irish folklore that says before baking soda bread, you must cut a deep cross all the way across the top to be sure to let the fairies out," writes Imen McDonnell in "The Farmette Cookbook: Recipes and Adventures From My Life on an Irish Farm."
Others say that cutting the cross in the top of the loaf keeps the devil out. Either way, it's a step we don't advocate skipping. We're all for saving fairies and avoiding devils.
Like biscuits, soda bread requires a light touch. Overmixing or kneading will make it tough, so mix the dough only until the flour is incorporated using your hand (preferred), a wooden spoon or a dough whisk.
Darina Allen's Soda Bread Cheese Scones (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant) Darina Allen's Soda Bread (With Scone Variation)
- 3 ½ cups (1 pound) all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon salt
- ½ teaspoon baking soda
- 1 ¾ to 2 cups buttermilk (depending on the consistency of the buttermilk)
- 1 egg beaten with a little milk (optional)
- Shredded cheese such as Kerrygold Dubliner or cheddar (optional; see note)
Heat oven to 450 degrees.
In a large, wide bowl, combine the flour and salt. Sift in the baking soda. Lift the flour up with your fingers to distribute the salt and baking soda.
Make a well in the center and pour in all the buttermilk. With your fingers stiff and outstretched, stir in a circular movement from the center to the outside of the bowl in ever increasing concentric circles. When you reach the outside of the bowl, seconds later the dough should be made. (Or, use a dough whisk to mix.)
Sprinkle a little flour on a work surface. Turn the dough out onto the floured surface. (Fill the bowl with cold water so it will be easy to wash later.)
Sprinkle a little flour on your hands. Gently tidy the dough around the edges. Tuck the edges underneath with your hands; gently pat the dough with your fingers into a loaf about 1 ½ inches thick. Now wash and dry your hands.
Cut a deep cross into the bread (this is called "blessing the bread"), and then prick it in the center of the four sections (to let the fairies out of the bread).
If making a round loaf:
Bake for 15 minutes then reduce oven to 400 degrees and continue baking for 15 or 20 minutes. Turn the bread upside down and bake 5 to 10 minutes more (the bottom should sound hollow when tapped). Cool on a wire rack.
If making cheese scones:
Cut the shaped loaf into 8 wedges to form scones. Brush tops with egg wash (egg beaten with a little milk), dip tops into shredded cheese and place on a baking sheet, cheese-side up. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes; cool on a wire rack.
Makes 1 loaf or 8 scones.
Note: To approximate the flavor of Dubliner cheese, substitute a combination of sharp cheddar and parmesan.
Recipe adapted from Darina Allen via Kerrygold
Seeded Cheddar Bread (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant) This seeded loaf from Irish author and celebrity chef Clodagh McKenna is hearty, tender and delicious. We used sunflower, pumpkin, sesame and cumin seeds on our loaf.
Seeded Cheddar Bread
- 1 ½ cups (7 ounces) all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon baking soda
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 2 ½ cups PLUS 1 tablespoon (¾ pound) whole wheat flour
- 4 ½ ounces grated Irish cheese such as Kerrygold's Dubliner cheese (see note)
- 1 ½ cups milk
- 1 cup PLUS 2 tablespoons natural or Greek yogurt
- For the topping (any combination of the following):
- 1 to 2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds
- 1 to 2 tablespoons sunflower seeds
- 1 ½ teaspoons poppy seeds
- 1 ½ teaspoons cumin seeds
- 1 ½ teaspoons linseed or flaxseeds
- 1 ½ teaspoons chia seeds
- 1 ½ teaspoons mustard seeds
Heat oven to 430 degrees. Lightly flour a baking sheet.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the all-purpose flour, baking soda and salt and mix well. Stir in the whole wheat flour, followed by the grated cheese and, with clean hands, mix until combined. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the milk and yogurt; set aside a tablespoon or so of the milk-yogurt mixture. Slowly pour the remaining milk-yogurt mixture into the well, while stirring with your free hand. With your fingers stiff and outstretched, stir in a circular movement from the center to the outside of the bowl in ever increasing concentric circles. When you reach the outside of the bowl, seconds later the dough should be made. (Or, use a dough whisk to mix.) Make sure that there are no dry patches and that the dough is completely wet.
Turn the mixture out onto the floured baking sheet and with floured hands, gently pat the dough into a thick circle. Flour a large knife and cut a vertical cross and then a diagonal cross, which should create eight segments. Make sure you cut no more than two-thirds of the way through the dough. Using a pastry brush, brush the whole loaf with the reserved milk-yogurt mixture. Then sprinkle the seeds on each of the segments. It should start to look like a flower.
Bake for 25 minutes, then reduce the oven to 350 degrees and continue baking for another 25 minutes. To test whether the loaf is cooked, tap with your knuckles: It should sound hollow. Once cooked, leave to cool on a cooling rack.
Note: To approximate the flavor of Dubliner cheese, substitute a combination of sharp cheddar and parmesan.
Recipe adapted from Clodagh McKenna via Kerrygold
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This loaf is a little richer, thanks to the addition of an egg and some melted butter, than your typical brown soda bread. It can be baked in a standard loaf pan or in a round pan.
Brown Bread
- ¾ cup all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon fine salt
- 1 teaspoon baking soda
- 2 cups whole-wheat flour
- 2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
- 1 ½ cups buttermilk
- 1 egg
- 1 tablespoon honey
Heat oven to 400 degrees. Coat a 9-inch loaf pan or 8-inch round pan or cast-iron skillet with butter. Set aside.
In a large bowl, stir together the all-purpose flour, salt and baking soda. Mix in the whole wheat flour. Rub or cut in the butter until the mixture has the texture of coarse breadcrumbs.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, egg and honey.
Make a well in the middle of the flour mixture and pour in the buttermilk mixture. Stir with a wooden spoon. The dough will be wet and sticky. Transfer dough to the prepared pan. Cut a line down the middle if baking in a loaf pan or cut a cross across the middle if using a round pan.
Bake 40 to 45 minutes. Cool in pan for 10 minutes and then turn out onto a wire rack to cool, covering the loaf with a damp tea towel.
Makes 1 loaf.
Recipe from "The Farmette Cookbook: Recipes and Adventures From My Life on an Irish Farm" by Imen McDonnell
Irish Stout and Treacle Loaf (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant) This dark, rich bread gets its deep caramel brown color from whole-wheat flour, stout beer and molasses. Honey and oats give it a touch of sweetness.
Irish Stout and Treacle Loaf
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 2 cups whole-wheat flour
- 1 ¾ cups rolled oats, plus more for sprinkling
- 1 tablespoon baking soda
- 1 ½ teaspoons salt
- 2 cups buttermilk
- 2 tablespoons molasses
- ¼ cup Irish stout
- 2 tablespoons honey
Heat oven to 400 degrees. Line a 9-inch loaf pan with parchment paper.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk the flours, oats, baking soda and salt. Make a well in the center and pour in the buttermilk, molasses, beer and honey. Using your hand, a dough whisk or wooden spoon, lightly mix into a wet dough. Don't overmix.
Spoon the dough into the prepared pan and slit the top of the dough with a knife. Sprinkle with rolled oats. Bake 45 to 50 minutes.
Turn the baked loaf out onto a rack to cool, top side up, and lay a damp tea towel over the loaf and let cool completely. (McDonnell notes the tea towel will help the loaf retain moisture and keep the crust from getting too hard.)
Recipe from "The Farmette Cookbook: Recipes and Adventures From My Life on an Irish Farm" by Imen McDonnell