Opinion

OPINION | Curtis Varnell: Old South one of last restaurants to keep good ol’ days alive

Minute Man, developed in Arkansas, was known for fast service and for the “radar” microwaved deep dish hot pies.

(Courtesy Photo/Curtis Varnell)
Minute Man, developed in Arkansas, was known for fast service and for the “radar” microwaved deep dish hot pies. (Courtesy Photo/Curtis Varnell)

World War II had ended, and the age of the automobile was in full swing. All across America, new style, pull-in restaurants were being constructed to cater to the needs of the modern traveler. Along major highways, restaurant entrepreneurs constructed sleek new buildings with large parking lots to accommodate families as well as the truckers who frequented the roads. Neon lights flickered in the darkness to attract those who wanted 24-hour, around-the-clock service. Booths built around colorful lacquered tables allowed groups to sit comfortably while they ordered and consumed the "special" of the day or the centerpiece food offered by the cafe. Many of the restaurants expanded, offering their brand of food to hungry highway travelers. McDonalds, Hardee's, and Dairy Queen became household names with stores along every major thoroughfare.

Most Arkansans have fond memories of stopping in at the AQ Chicken House or Minute Man and enjoying time and a meal with family. Minute Man, developed in Arkansas, was known for fast service and for the "radar" microwaved deep dish hot pies. AQ was a one-of-a-kind chicken palace and just the thought of those delicious hot buns and chicken cooking bring back childhood and nostalgia for what is perceived a better and slower pace of life.

Many of those stores have gone the way of the dinosaur. Minute Man, once consisting of a chain of 57 stores, is down to one remaining at last count. AQ recently closed its Springdale store and ended a business that lasted three-quarters of a century. Other chains have adapted to the times, destroyed the old buildings, and replaced them with modern designs.

A few of those old-time road house stops still exist. A visit to the Old South restaurant in Russellville is like a step back in time. The neon lights still flash, the booths are still sleek and waiting, and the country-style food is delicious. Built in a modular style in 1947, the building is a part of local history and lore and is on the National Register of Historic Places. Advertised as serving two presidents and a king, one quickly recognizes which one people most identify with. Elvis busts and pictures adorn the walls. The Old South once served a smorgasbord of deep fried food including the fried honey bun and deep fried pickles. If Elvis wasn't attracted by those, he certainly could not have resisted the turtle pie, a local favorite still served today.

The Old South is located on Arkansas 64. The highway was once the most direct route from the East to the West Coast, connecting with Route 66 in Tulsa. Famous travelers were attracted to its food as well as to its never-closed venue. Bill Clinton was fond of the food offered there, and President Jimmy Carter once stopped in for a meal. Famous entertainers that visited included Ernest Tubb, B.B. King, and Johnny Cash, but it was the common working guy stopping in for breakfast, coffee, or a delicious evening meal that has kept it open through the years.

Today, the Old South Restaurant looks virtually the same on the exterior and interior as it did when constructed in 1947. It has a streamlined design, large rounded front windows, padded booths, and lots and lots of neon lights. The menu still offers many of the same items that were included in the original store. Visiting the place is like a step into the past with travelers and working people enjoying coffee, pie, and conversation. The prices are reasonable -- and the nostalgia is free.

  photo  A sign advertises an auction Wednesday, March 22, 2023, at the former AQ Chicken House restaurant in Springdale. The business is closed after operating since 1947. The building will be razed and part of the property will be developed into a car wash. Visit nwaonline.com/photo for today's photo gallery. (NWA Democrat-Gazette/Andy Shupe)
 
 
  photo  The Old South Restaurant was assembled on-site in Russellville over six days to open on April 4, 1947. It was the second of dozens upon dozens of pre-fab restaurants William Stell would open, and the one at 1330 E. Main in Russellville is the last one left after more than 75 years. (Courtesy Photo/Kat Robinson)
 
 

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