Ellington

Description

The fast-Chinese concept, available in malls around the country, has all of the disadvantages and few of the advantages of Chinese buffets. The food, a dozen or so items ranging from egg rolls to pepper steak, is on display in upfront trays under heat lamps behind the sneeze guards, cafeteria-style. Quantity is not an issue; you certainly get a lot of food for your money. Unfortunately, it's all lowcommon- denominator, not bad but basically stuff you eat because you're in the mall, you have a hankering for something vaguely Oriental and there isn't a real Chinese restaurant, or even a buffet place, within hailing distance.