LITTLE ROCK — Fatsam's calls itself the "originators of Zydeco-style cuisine." It certainly sets the mood for its motto ... from the Zydeco music to the bold, festive, Mardi-Gras-invoking colors of the restaurant's northwestern niche in the River Market's Ottenheimer Market Hall.
One of the best things about Fatsam's - which began as a catering service and became a restaurant in early June - is that the Cajun/Creole cuisine is flavorful to the max but not so spicy that sufferers of heartburn and related disorders can't enjoy it.
Featured meat dishes include Jerk Chicken, Fried Catfish and Cajun Pork. They can be had as a po' boy ($6.50) or dinner ($7.50); the chicken and pork can also be had in the form of a salad ($7.50). Dinners are served with hot-water corn bread, red beans and rice, and coleslaw or potato salad. Combo plates ($7.50) come with red beans and rice along with a choice of either jambalaya or "gumbolaya."
One of Fatsam's best dishes is the Jerk Chicken, a dish whose very name instills fear in those who can't take fiery food. It has a strong-but-smooth flavor that stays with the diner ... in a good way. Then there's the Cajun Pork with its smoky-sweet taste that's exquisite enough to tempt any of us who have sworn off pork for faith-based or health-based reasons.
The Chicken and Sausage Gumbo ($6.50 regular, $3.25 small) is more mild and less salty than many gumbos but again, taste has not been compromised. It's thick and hearty and makes a satisfying meal in itself when served with the restaurant's own French bread.
Fatsam's menu features "Geaux Cajun" items - served with French bread - like Jambalaya ($5.50), also hearty and also with a touch of sweetness, and Crawfish Etouffee ($6.50),rich on crawfish tails and gustatorial ambience. The Red Beans & Rice With Sausage ($5) is good, basic fare, as are the potato salad and log-like hunks of hot-water corn bread.Speaking of rice, a part of so many dishes on the menu, we've been happy to find it perfectly cooked every time.
Due to popular demand, Fatsam's recently added a Sampler ($10) that includes the meat of one's choice, along with jambalaya, etouffee, gumbo and red beans and rice. More adventurous diners may want to try the Grilled Alligator Kabobs ($8).
Various daily specials are offered, as well as Saturday breakfast fare. Can't make it to Cafe Du Monde in New Orleans for your coffee and beignets? Go to Fatsam's. Need "Sumpin' Sweet," as Fatsam's calls it? There's Peach Cobbler, $2 and a sheer delight for anyone who likes crust ... crisp or gooey.
Servings are generous. Owner/chef James Meadors, wife Constance and their staff go the extra mile to make sure patrons receive personal attention; food is often cooked to order.
Definitely among the standouts of the River Market eateries, Fatsam's has proved to be a welcome oasis for at least one homesick Louisianaborn diner we know. And it has already become so popular that it sometimes closes early because it has run out of food.
Fatsam's Louisiana Cafe Address: 400 President Clinton Ave.
(Ottenheimer Market Hall, River Market), Little Rock Hours: 11 a.m. to 4-5 p.m. Monday-Saturday Cuisine: Cajun/Creole Alcoholic beverages: No Reservations: No Wheelchair accessible: Yes Carryout: Yes (501) 244-4720, fatsamcaters.com (catering service)
Weekend, Pages 36 on 07/30/2009