LITTLE ROCK — Few things are more promising than a pipinghot bowl of French onion soup placed before you on a brisk day, its fragrant liquid beneath a toasted raft topped with golden cheese that will soon be stringing from your mouth. How frustrating, then, to discover something skimpy, with bready mush and pale onions, devoid of flavor.
Having been subjected to three such disappointing examples at restaurants in the fall, I decided to work through what it takes to make a soul-satisfying version. Not reinventing the wheel; just returning it to the right course.
Onions became the focal point of my tinkering with other cold-weather classics, including croque- monsieur and a savory tart.
Experimenting with yellow, white and Vidalia onions, I discovered that, yes, the Vidalias were sweetest; in fact, too much so to use on their own.
I discerned little difference between the yellow and white onions. The soup versions with all yellow onions and half yellow/half Vidalia both had a fine balance of sweet to savory.
Over the next few days, the caramelized onions from my various test batches got mixed with sour cream for a quick dip and heated with cream, chopped spinach and garlic for a side dish. I have no doubt that in the coming cold days and nights, with the aid of quarts of oniony broth in my freezer, I will be fulfilling the promise of a satisfyingFrench onion soup.
The soup can be made well in advance and frozen.
French Onion Soup 1 baguette, cut into 1/2-inch
slices 2 pounds (about 4 medium)
yellow onions, peeled,
halved from top to bottom
and sliced into 1/4-inch half
moons 6 bay leaves, divided use 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons butter, cut into
small cubes Salt and ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon onion powder 8 cups veal, beef, chicken
stock or smoked chicken
stock (see note) 1/3 cup port (may substitute
Madeira, sherry or dry
vermouth) 1 teaspoon chopped fresh
thyme leaves 2 cups grated Gruyere cheese 2 cups grated Fontal cheeseHeat oven to 375 degrees.
Arrange the baguette slices in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake 15 to 20 minutes, or until lightly browned and hard.
Heat a large saute pan over medium heat for several minutes. Spread the onions evenly in the pan, along with 3 of the bay leaves, and let them sit untouched for a couple of minutes. Drizzle the oil evenly over the onions and dot with butter. Do not stir for several minutes. (The goal is to let some of the onions’ moisture evaporate and to get some good color on the onions at the start.
Once you stir, water will be released, and the caramelizing will end until that water evaporates.) Stir the onions, using a flatedged wooden spoon to scrape up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let the onions cook, stirring often, for 20 to 25 minutes, until they are golden brown and nicely caramelized.
Transfer the onions to a large pot and add the remaining bay leaves, the onion powder and the stock. Season with about 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and let the soup cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes, adjusting the heat to keep it at a very slow boil.
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat the broiler to high. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and place 8 onion soup crocks on it.
Stir the port and thyme into the hot soup, and ladle it into the crocks, stopping a half-inch short of their rims. Discard bay leaves. Float 2 or 3 slices of baguette on top: You want to cover the surface of the soup without the bread overlapping.
Combine the cheeses in a small bowl. Sprinkle 1/2 cupof the cheese mixture evenly over the toasts in each crock (don’t skimp!) and broil for 3 or 4 minutes, until the cheese is bubbling and well browned.
Serve immediately.
Makes 8 servings.
Note: Use the very best you can get your hands on; pretty much any rich, full-bodied stock will work (chicken, turkey, veal, beef, duck) and that means not using store-bought stuff that comes in cartons.
Croque-monsieur is the classic French grilled hamand-cheese sandwich, topped with cheese sauce and passed under a broiler until it’s golden brown and bubbling. The recipe usually calls for nutty Gruyere cheese only, but this indulgent version includes Fontal cheese, a semi-soft Italian melting cheese, and Camembert, which adds a note of richness and dimension. The sweetness of caramelized onions nicely balances the cheese’s tang.
Oniony Three-Cheese Croque-Monsieur For the onions: 1/2 pound (1 medium) yellow
onion, peeled, halved and
sliced into 1/4-inch half
moons 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 tablespoon butter, cut into 4
cubes Salt and ground black pepper For the Mornay sauce: 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons all-purpose
flour 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 cup warm milk 1 cup grated Gruyere cheeseFor the sandwiches: 1/2 cup grated Gruyere cheese 1/4 cup grated Fontal cheese 8 slices country bread, about
7 inches across and 1/2-inch
thick 1/4 cup butter, at room
temperature 4 teaspoons Dijon-style
mustard 6 ounces Camembert cheese,
cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices 8 ounces very thinly sliced
Virginia or Black Forest ham
For the onions: Heat a large saute pan over medium heat for several minutes. Spread the onions evenly in the pan, along with the bay leaf, and let them sit untouched for a couple of minutes. Drizzle the oil evenly over the onions and dot with butter. Do not stir for severalminutes. Stir the onions, using a flat-edged wooden spoon to scrape up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let the onions cook, stirring often, for 20 to 25 minutes, until they are golden brown and nicely caramelized.
The yield is about 1/2 cup.
For the Mornay sauce: Heat the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat until it bubbles. Whisk in the flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper and the nutmeg, andcook for 2 or 3 minutes, to create a nutty-brown roux.
Slowly whisk in the warm milk, beating constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Cook the sauce for 2 or 3 minutes, until well thickened and bubbling.
Remove from the heat and add the cheese, stirring until it is melted. The yield is about 1 1/4 cups.
For the sandwiches: Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat the broiler to high. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Combine the Gruyere and Fontal cheeses in a small bowl.
Completely cover each slice of bread with butter on one side and with mustard on the other side. Place 4 of the slices in a large nonstick skillet, buttered side down. Top each slice with 2 tablespoons of caramelized onions, Camembert slices, ham slices and 1/4 cup of the grated cheese mixture. Top each with a slice of bread, buttered side up.
Cook the sandwiches over medium heat until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes, lightly pressing down on them with a spatula to ensure even toasting.
Carefully turn the sandwiches over and toast them on the second side until golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer the sandwiches to the baking sheet and spread about 1/4 cup of Mornay sauce over each one.
Broil for 3 or 4 minutes, until the sauce is bubbling and nicely browned. Serve right away.
Makes 4 sandwiches.
This terrific tart is what happens when a croquemonsieur - grilled ham-andcheese sandwich topped with broiled cheese sauce - collides with onion soup. With a green salad on the side, it makes a perfect lunch offering. On its own, it is an excellent first course for a dinner party.
Croque a l’Oignon Tart For the onions: 11/2 pounds (3 medium)
yellow onions, peeled,
halved and sliced into 1/4-
inch half-moons 2 bay leaves 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1/4 cup butter, cut into small
cubes, divided use Salt and ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh
thyme For the Mornay sauce: 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour Pinch grated fresh nutmeg 1 cup warm milk 1 cup grated Gruyere cheese For the tart: One 9-inch, baked tart shell,
in its pan 3 ounces very thinly sliced
Virginia or Black Forest hamFor the onions: Heat a large saute pan over medium heat for several minutes. Spread the onions evenly in the pan, along with the bay leaves, and let them sit untouched for a couple of minutes. Drizzle the oil evenly over them and dot with 2 tablespoons of the butter.
Do not stir them for several minutes. Stir the onions, using a flat-edged wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let the onions cook, stirring often, for 20 to 25 minutes, until they are golden brown and nicely caramelized.
Stir in the chopped thyme.
Keep the onions warm on low heat if you are making the tart immediately; or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
Meanwhile, make the Mornay sauce: Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium heat until the butter bubbles. Whisk in the flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper and the nutmeg, and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, to create a nutty-brown roux.
Slowly whisk in the milk, beating constantly to prevent lumps. Cook the sauce for 2 or 3 minutes, until well thickened and bubbling. Remove from the heat and add the cheese, stirring until it is melted.
For the tart: Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat the broiler to high. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.
Place the baked tart shell on the baking sheet. Spread the warm onions evenly in the bottom of the tart shell, cover with the ham slices and top evenly with the Mornay sauce.
Broil for 4 or 5 minutes, until the sauce is bubbling and nicely browned. Serve immediately.
Makes 6 servings.
Food, Pages 29 on 01/23/2013