OPINION: MALE CALL

OPINION | MALE CALL: Ties should end at middle of belt buckle to look best

Q How long should a man's tie be? Should it touch his belt buckle? I argue with my brother about this all the time. (I think he wears his ties too short.) I would love your expert opinion. Thank you.

A Men often think that being well dressed has to be expensive. The answer to your question proves this is not necessarily true. Even wearing the most costly suit, shirt and tie can come off as "all wrong" when the tie is too short or too long. The right length tie is one element of dressing well that is free. So, what is the correct length? The tip of the tie should extend down to the middle of the belt buckle, not above it or below it. This is not just one of "the rules"; it has a reason that improves a man's appearance.

When putting together a great looking clothing combination, it is important to create an effect that makes a man look taller and leaner. The very best fool-the-eye-trick to accomplish this is to choose elements that force the eye up and down into a vertical sweep. A tie that is too short interferes with this up and down eye movement; the empty space between the bottom of the tie and the top of the trousers stops the eye's sweep and introduces a horizontal break. The result? A too-short tie that draws the eye to your middle. Not good. And the opposite, that is, wearing a tie that is too long, can be an embarrassment. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it just right.

A few factors affect where a tie ends: a man's height, the length of the tie, the length of the "tail" and the knot.

Ties are manufactured in lengths that range from 54 to 57 inches. There seems to be no consistency throughout the industry. When tying your knot -- especially if you are tall -- these few inches can make a big difference. If you need a longer tie, don't limit yourself to ties made by "big and tall" manufacturers. Try this method instead: While shopping for a tie, narrow your selection down to a few of your favorites; lay them out on the counter and see which one is the longest. Your decision is easy. And, if you own a tie that is too short or too long, it can be altered by Tiecrafters, (212) 629-5800. They have been cleaning, narrowing and repairing ties for decades.

When you are actually tying your tie at home, most of the adjustment for the right length comes from the balance of the ends before you begin your knot. Don't concern yourself with how long the back end is since no one sees it. Just concentrate on having the front piece fall at your belt line. If the back end remains visible, check out an ingenious little device called "The Tie Thing." The perfect new tie accessory, it is a totally effective way to hold your tie in place invisibly and inexpensively.

The knot you choose does not create as significant a change in the length as one might think, with one caveat (that's one cravat caveat.). A full-Windsor can take 3+ inches off a tie's length, but it will also say you're not matching current fashion because the full-Windsor is too large and bulky for today's styles. The half-Windsor, which gives you back 2 inches, is one of the current appropriate choices; so, too, is the four-in-hand knot, which gives you one more inch in length. You can use these options to adjust the length, or, if you have an absolute tie knot preference, go with that, and use those options outlined above to be sure your tie touches your belt.

When you wear a tie that is the right length and well-knotted, not only will you look great but you will also feel confident.

Please send your men's dress and grooming questions to MALE CALL:

Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net

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