Right at the top of Italy, there's a region that has become one of my favorites in all of Europe: Alto Adige. It's just south of Austria, and if you visit, you'll find that its language and cuisine are a fascinating blend of Italian and German influences. (Supposedly, the region also boasts Italy's highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants!) The region's history is fascinating, and grapes have grown there for more than 2,000 years. As it lies at the foot of the Italian Alps, the varying heights of the vineyards allow farmers to grow a seemingly divergent range of grapes. At lower elevations, you'll find red grapes that produce rustic, earthy wines, while higher elevations are perfect for racy, Germanic white wines that have become loved around the world.
One of my favorite things about Alto Adige is the grapes that are grown here and almost nowhere else in Italy. Here are some you're most likely to find in your local shop.
PINOT GRIGIO
Believe me when I tell you that you can't call yourself a pinot grigio fan until you've had it from Alto Adige. You'll find examples at many price points, like the one from Peter Zemmer ($15) or the "Punggl" bottling from Nals Margreid ($26), but they share their laser-like acidity and bracing freshness that will transport you instantly to the Italian countryside.
PINOT BIANCO
You may be more familiar with this grape under its French name, pinot blanc, but Alto Adige is perhaps where it reaches its peak. Cantina Terlan, which was founded in 1893, is famous for its especially long-lived pinot bianco. Its "Tradition" bottling ($25) is a must-try. Look for notes of lime, pear, chamomile tea, and an almost-salty minerality.
GEWURZTRAMINER
Gewurztraminer here is less brash and more linear than its Alsatian counterparts, but it's no less delicious. Terlan's "Tradition" ($25) is complete with the perfume of geranium, rose, mango and lychee, and is the perfect refresher for the hot Arkansas summer we're about to enter.
SCHIAVA
Schiava is the region's most planted red grape, and thankfully, it's becoming easier to find here in the States. It's soft and approachable, with heady aromas of freshly picked strawberries, cotton candy and violets. Cantina Kaltern makes a lovely version ($27). Look for their signature long-necked bottle.
LAGREIN
Another red grape you'll rarely see outside of Alto Adige is lagrein, rustic and robust, more akin to cabernet than schiava. Again, Cantina Kaltern makes the only bottle I've ever found in Arkansas. At just $21 and with powerful notes of blackberries, chocolate and coffee, it's a winner.
As always, you can see what I'm drinking on Instagram at @sethebarlow and send your wine questions and quibbles to sethebarlowwine@gmail.com