Q: A few years ago I was doing some work at an old abandoned homeplace about the middle of October here in Siloam Springs. Upon arriving I found a yard full of these beautiful red flowers. I thought they were maybe a different kind of naked ladies that I had never seen, but after some research I determined they were spider lilies. When I returned the next day, I dug a few up. I dug up only a few clusters but ended up with several dozen bulbs. I took them straight home and planted them. ... I had read not to expect anything for at least a year. Much to my surprise, that very winter in late December — after several hard freezes — they all sprang up about 6 inches. No blooms, only green foliage. Every year since (three years), it's the same thing. Nothing at all during late summer and fall but after a few hard freezes they all spring up and are green and healthy until very late winter, and then eventually they will die back. Is this unusual? Will I ever see blooms? Is this because I may have planted too deep? I barely planted them, about 2 inches deep.
A: The plant in question is actually related to the pink naked lady bulbs (Lycoris squamigera). The red spider lilies, or surprise lilies, are Lycoris radiata. They do differ in their life cycle a bit. Naked ladies begin to grow foliage in late winter or very early spring. The foliage grows for a month or two and then disappears, to be followed by naked flower stems (no foliage during bloom) in mid- to late July or early August. They are a bit later blooming than normal this year. The red spider or surprise lilies should produce foliage immediately after they bloom in the fall. The small, narrow strap-like blue-green leaves emerge typically in the fall, and die away in early spring. Then seemingly out of nowhere in late August through September, the 15-inch-tall spikes emerge from underground, topped with a spidery, open red flower. After the flowers fade, the leaves emerge again and persist until spring, producing food for next year's flowering. Many surprise lilies don't bloom the first year after transplanting, but you should get foliage. Don't cut the foliage off until it begins to die back since that is what is producing the energy for flowers. I do not think you planted them too shallow; if anything, they may not be deep enough. I recommend planting the bulbs at 3-5 inches. How much sunlight do they get? If they are in the shade, they might not bloom for you. Keep watching and you might get a surprise this year.
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Q: Earlier this morning I was looking at some pictures I took when we made a trip to New England a few years ago and on the way home had stopped over for a night at Geneva-on-the-Lake, Ohio — an extremely photogenic area. Can you tell me what [the plants in my photos] are? Thanks for all the information you provide, including the gardening tips at the beginning of each month.
A: The first one with the beginning of a yellow bloom is a biennial called woolly mullein (Verbascum thapsus). The first year it has a rosette of foliage. The second season it produces a tall spike of small yellow blooms. Then typically the mother plant dies; but it can reseed itself. The second, fuzzy leaved plant with purple blooms is commonly called lamb's ear (Stachys byzantine), a great perennial for dry sites.
Q: I was told that when peas are done, with the roots still alive, I can mow them down and they will make more peas?
A: When you say "peas," I am assuming you mean Southern peas such as black-eyed or purple hull peas. I have never known them to resprout after harvest. Usually, they are one and done. I have seen some young plants that were mown down by deer that rebounded, but I have not known of a double crop. If any readers have done this, let me know.
Retired after 38 years with the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service, Janet Carson ranks among Arkansas' best known horticulture experts. Her blog is at arkansasonline.com/planitjanet. Write to her at P.O. Box 2221, Little Rock, AR 72203 or email jcarson@arkansasonline.com