When we began the Arkansas Food Hall of Fame in 2017, we decided to keep it exclusive. I can think of almost 100 restaurants in Arkansas that deserve recognition, but we knew this needed to be something special. Only three restaurants a year are inducted.
That first year, none of us on the selection committee realized until after the fact that the three inaugural inductees were all Black-owned restaurants. That was fitting since Black cooks have added so much to Arkansas' food culture through the decades. Since then, we've inducted restaurants from every part of the state, ranging from dairy bars to fine-dining establishments.
To be eligible, restaurants must be locally owned, not be part of a chain, and have been in business at least 25 years. This year's inductees are the Kream Kastle of Blytheville, the Ozark Cafe at Jasper and the Bulldog in Bald Knob. A record 504 nominations were submitted.
I'll start with the Bulldog since it's strawberry shortcake season, and that's what has made this restaurant famous statewide. The Bulldog only closes on Thanksgiving and Christmas. It's open the other 363 days of the year from 8 a.m. until 9 p.m. and has long been a favorite for those traveling U.S. 67, U.S. 167 and U.S. 64. The menu includes everything from burgers and hot dogs to barbecue and shrimp plates.
In lightly populated Newton County, the Ozark Cafe has been a staple on the downtown Jasper square since 1909. There are days when you'll find dozens of motorcycles parked out front since motorcyclists from across the country, who love riding in this part of the Ozarks, have spread the word about the classic small-town cafe.
In northeast Arkansas, Kream Kastle is one of the places that led me to declare Blytheville as the Barbecue Capital of Arkansas. It's known as a pig sandwich in Blytheville, and Kream Kastle makes a great one. In 1952, Steven Johns, a first-generation son of immigrants, only sold hot dogs. He added a pit and began serving barbecue in 1955. His daughter Suzanne and husband Jeff Wallace recently rebuilt Kream Kastle after a devastating fire.
Here are the other finalists this year (all of whom I believe eventually will find their way into the Food Hall of Fame):
Betty's Old Fashion at El Dorado, which sadly has fallen victim to a highway widening project. Hopefully someone will buy the name and recipes and then relocate the business. The dairy bar was established in 1936. Betty Schaub began working there in 1957 at age 19. A decade later, she bought the place and later sold it to a niece, Susie Blanchard.
Big Banjo Pizza at Pine Bluff, which was opened by brothers Dickie and Russell Ratliff in 1974. About everyone in the family--uncles, aunts, nieces, nephews, mothers and daughters--have worked there since then. They continue to serve southeast Arkansas favorites such as the taco pizza. The brothers also owned R&R Equipment Co., Big R Ice Co. and Ratliff Properties.
Black Angus at Little Rock, which was opened by Oliver Harper in 1962 and became the go-to place for generations of University of Arkansas football fans attending games at War Memorial Stadium. Harper retired in 1985, but the restaurant was resurrected by a longtime employee named Bill Stovall. It was later purchased by Karla Creasey Farley. The three main cooks have been in the kitchen for 35, 26 and 24 years.
Daisy Queen at Marshall. Owned by Jeff and Robin Mays, this restaurant opened in 1965 and has been a regular stop ever since for those traveling U.S. 65. It's just down the road from the Kenda, one of the last remaining drive-in theaters in the state. Between a movie at the Kenda and a meal at Daisy Queen, Marshall might be the best place in Arkansas to spend a warm spring evening.
DeVito's at Harrison, which was started in 1986 by Jim DeVito. The U.S. Army sent him to Camp Robinson in Arkansas. He met his wife Mary and later moved to her hometown of Harrison. The restaurant is known for Italian and trout dishes. It's now operated by Steve, Chris and Joe DeVito.
Hugo's at Fayetteville, which was opened by Lamar Anderson in 1977. When Jason Piazza bought the place, he made few changes since Hugo's is remembered fondly by UA alumni. It remains a favorite of college students along with others who live in booming northwest Arkansas.
Meacham's at Ash Flat, where there's usually a wait. The restaurant is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. until 8 p.m. Troy Meacham bought an existing restaurant in 1979. It's now operated by his daughter. Meacham's was always the place for breakfast and supper when I would stay in the area to fish for smallmouth bass on the South Fork.
Skyline Cafe at Mena, which opened in 1922. Owner Candon Burrell first waited tables here in the 1990s. Customers have covered two U.S. maps with pins showing where they live. The restaurant is open Thursday through Monday for breakfast and lunch, and is especially popular in the fall when people come from across the country to see the leaves change on Rich Mountain.
Ohio Club at Hot Springs, a legendary bar founded in 1905 by John "Coffee" Williams and nephew Sam Watt. Like many Hot Springs establishments during the days of illegal but wide-open gambling, there were slot machines inside the club for decades. These days it's known for its food (especially the burgers) and live music that's offered several nights a week. The restaurant recently was purchased by Saddiq and Jeannie Mir, who also own J&S Italian Villa and the Copper Penny in Hot Springs.
Senior Editor Rex Nelson's column appears regularly in the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette. He's also the author of the Southern Fried blog at rexnelsonsouthernfried.com.