CHEAP EATS: Dine in or takeout, Chi's Express a trusty mainstay

LITTLE ROCK — Chi's Express started as a glorified takeout counter, a small rectangular space in a strip mall outpost way out west on Chenal. It was intended to be nothing more than serviceable location where the larger parent restaurant - Chi's on Shackleford Drive - could shuttle food faster to the wellheeled customers living in the nearby mansions.

But, over the years, as west Little Rock got closer to the rest of the city (or the city began to chew up the woods of west Little Rock), Chi's Express has turned into comfortable, dependable neighborhood restaurant that clearly doesn't have to depend on any relationship toany other place to pull in customers. Most of Chi's Express' business is takeout, but practically every night one or moreof the five tables in the small space is occupied - sometimes with a notable Little Rock chief executive officer.

Part of the comfort factor is that Chi's Express' extensive menu hasn't changed much over time. There are still 21 choices for a seafood entree and 15 for a chicken entree. That doesn't include the higher-priced Feature Selections such as the Kung Pao Triple Delight and Chicken & Shrimp in Light Wine Sauce ($10.95 for each). The appetizers are standard fare, such as the Potsticker Dumplings (six plump dumplings for $4.50), Shanghai Egg Rolls (two for $2.25) and Hot & Sour Soup ($1.50).

Choosing to dine in requires you to place your order and payat the counter and to fill your own drinks from the fountain in plastic foam cups. Still, the food comes out in a timely manner and is artfully arranged on clean white plates. A small TV above a refrigerated drink case is, more often than not, tuned to one of the 24-hour news stations. The lack of formality along with an atmosphere humming with orders placed and picked up leads to a relaxed environment. Nobody is rushing you out or putting a clock on your stay with a check.

It would be hard to imagine anybody arguing that Chi's Express has the best Chinese food in the city. However, as a whole, it is probably two or three notches above average and it certainly more than satisfies when a craving for Chinese food hits.

We've always found the chunks of batter-fried chicken in the Sweet & Sour Chicken ($7.50) to be especially fresh. The Cashew Chicken ($7.50) is smothered in a sweet, subtle sauce. We aren't huge fans of steak on a stick but the Teriyaki Steak Skewers appetizer ($5.25) goes a long way to converting us.

The way west Little Rock continues to grow (the nearby Promenade shopping center will open up any day now), Chi's Express could now be considered in the middle of that part of town. If the takeout outpost was going to open up its own takeout outpost, it would probably have to be in Roland.

Chi's Express Address: 17200 Chenal Parkway Suite 201 Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-9 p.m. Sunday Cuisine: Chinese Credit cards: V, MC, D, AE Alcoholic beverages: No Reservations: No Wheelchair accessible: Yes Carryout: Yes (501) 821-8000