NORTH LITTLE ROCK — It's finally here.
After a two-year wait, the grocery store-deprived residents of North Little Rock's Argenta district — and even their south of the river neighbors in downtown Little Rock — finally have a place to call their own, and it's a market with a mission.
A product of the weekend Argenta Farmer's Market that's been set up at the corner of Main and Sixth streets in recent years, the Argenta Market is now open and offering daily access to many of those same goodies previously only available at the weekend gatherings or ordered online. Part of the Certified Arkansas Farmers Market group, the Argenta Market is a place where the “shop local first” mantra shines.
Of course, there are exceptions to the rule, like the Doritos and fancy cheeses from around the world (including one that incorporates blueberries. No joke). But here you'll find everything from locally grown produce to cuts of meat from Arkansas raised elk and “beefalo.”
You'll also find a deli that offers a number of options for eat in or take out, including daily specials. Serving up more than a dozen different kinds of sandwiches that run the gamut from French dip to vegetarian-friendly portabello with pesto mayo, the deli counter also has sides like potato and egg salad and locally grown superfood quinoa mixed up in a prepared salad. The sandwiches are around $7, give or take a dollar.
For the grab-and-go crowd short on time (there is a bit of a wait for a sandwich because they're all prepared when ordered), there's a Chef Shane's Grab and Go cold section just next to the deli. Here you'll find prepared meals that heat up in a jiffy — things like burritos, lasagna or even chicken pot pie. I didn't read all the packages, but microwave looks like an option for most, though some may take an oven. There's also specialty pastas made in house, though that might serve better for dinner since not everyone has a kitchen fit to boil water in the workplace.
For the hungry diner, the hardest part is probably staring at all the butcher offers. There's ruby red, fresh cuts of steak and prepared creations like stuffed pork chops along with more exotic temptations like the seafood sausage or homemade hot dogs. When the waterworks start going in the mouth, it's hard not to just bail on the sandwich, grab one of these, and head home to fire up the grill.
Of course, that's slightly impractical for folks who have to be back in the office in an hour.
No worries, at the front of the market there are five indoor tables and six outdoor tables, along with a long counter with stools on which to dine in. Doing so is just a matter of ordering what you want, picking up a beverage (there's house-made tea, along with bottled Coke and Pepsi products) and paying for it all up front at the checkout counter. With massive front windows looking out onto North Little Rock's Main Street, it's a great place to people watch — especially since Argenta Market is packing in the people. Or, at least, it certainly was on my recent Tuesday lunch visit.
And where else are you going to be in the middle of your meal and see a big box of fresh cantaloupe — or as my niece used to call them “camel-lope” — come in through the front door, bringing with it a scent as pleasing as a sweet-smelling candle?
Even though I still lament the loss of Argenta Seafood, which inhabited the building previously, that kind of unique experience seems worth the wait to me.
THE DISH:
Gourmet Burger ($7.99): I have to confess, I wasn't ready for how big this burger was going to be. A massively thick patty cooked around medium well is served up on the house's special jalapeno cheese bun, and the combination is wonderful. I could eat just the slightly sweet and spicy bun and be content, but the tender, subtly spiced burger is certainly welcome. Oh, and there was no charge for adding a slice of cheddar. The price also includes a pickle spear and homemade chips, which tasted a little overcooked and could have used more of the zesty spice mix dusting them.
Petit Jean Club Sandwich ($7.99): This sandwich was also massive with thick cuts of Petit Jean bacon sticking out all over. I tried to order it on ciabatta bread, but the worker behind the counter advised against it, saying the sandwich would get too huge. He was right. Even on sourdough, the sandwich — cut into quarters — threatened to overrun the basket. Everything about this sandwich tasted fresh and fabulous, from the sweet lettuce to the juicy tomatoes. Plus, they didn’t skimp on the meat. This could easily be two meals. Next time, I’ll skip the chips and give in to the call of the cucumber salad behind the deli counter glass.
INFO TO GO:
Argenta Market
521 Main St., North Little Rock
(501) 379-9980
Hours: Monday-Saturday 7 a.m.-8 p.m. (kitchen closes at 7 p.m.), Sunday 9 a.m.-2 p.m.