LITTLE ROCK — Ah, the elegant egg. The humble egg. It really is all it’s cracked up to be.
It stars in sophisticated souffles and gets the job done in humble hashes. It is the key ingredient in light-as-air meringue, richly creamy custards, omelets and even salads.
Few foods are as versatile as this kitchen workhorse that is equally adept in playing binder, leavener or entree.
But as versatile as the “incredible, edible” egg is, it is also plagued by contradictions. The egg is a nutrition powerhouse with loads of protein, vitamins A, D and E and a host of other nutrients. But these qualities are often overshadowed by its high fat and cholesterol content.
Many diners opt for egg whites or egg substitutes in an effort to still enjoy eggs while avoiding the fat and cholesterol.
However, it should be noted that most of the nutrients - specifically the vitamins A, B, D, E, folate, calcium, phosphorus, iron and zinc - are more abundant in the yolk, which also contains all the cholesterol and practically all the fat.
For egg-rich entrees that are at home for lunch or dinner, it’s hard to beat quiches and frittatas.
Quiche, with its roots in northern France, is a versatile dish combining flaky pastry with savory custard. For traditionalists the ideal quiche is a tender, yet sturdy crust topped with just-set custard studded with vegetables, meat and/or cheese, though crustless variations exist.
Many cookbook authors insist on special quiche pans or even ring molds (bottomless pans). But all you really need to make a good quiche is a deep, 9-inch baking dish, such as a deep-dish pie pan or cake pan.
The frittata, the omelet’s Italian cousin, is equally adaptable but simpler to make than quiches. Frittatas don’t require crusts or special pans. An oven-safe (preferably nonstick) skillet is all you need.
Many frittata recipes instruct you to fix it pretty much the same way you’d fix an omelet, stirring and scrambling and lifting the cooked egg to let the raw part slide through. Then when the eggs have just firmed, turn them over to cook the other side, either with a flip and a flick of the wrist, or by inverting them onto a plate or a lid and sliding them back into the pan.
Both methods are potentially messy and require a deft hand. An easier method is to skip the stirring and scraping and simply cook the eggs on low heat until just set.
Then instead of flipping, finish it under ahot broiler to set and brown the top. Or, an even simpler method is to cook the mixture in the oven.
Tuna Quiche
1 refrigerated pie crust 4 ounces mushrooms, thinly sliced Olive oil 2 eggs, beaten 1 /2 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 /2 cup milk 7 ounces canned albacore tuna, drained and
flaked 4 ounces shredded Swiss cheese
4 ounces shredded cheddar cheese
1 /2 package Lipton Recipe Secrets Onion Soup Mix Heat oven to 350 degrees.
Line a 9-inch baking dish with pie crust, prick
with a fork and bake until lightly golden brown,
about 15 minutes. Cool.
In a large saute pan, saute mushrooms in a
little oil over medium-high heat until browned.
Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs,
mayonnaise, flour and milk until well blended.
Stir in mushrooms, tuna, cheeses and soup mix. Pour into prepared pie shell and bake untilset, about 45 minutes.
Makes about 8 servings.
Recipe adapted from recipes by Maureen Williams and Brenda Joseph (runner up in the California Opera Association Big Quiche Bakeoff)Bacon-Asparagus Quiche 1 (9-inch) homemade or refrigerated pie
crust 1 pound bacon cut into 1 /4-inch pieces 1 /2 pound asparagus, cut into 1 /4-inch pieces 3 cups half-and-half 6 eggs, lightly beaten 2 teaspoons Lawry’s seasoned salt 1 /2 teaspoon Lawry’s seasoned pepper 2 /3 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese, divided
use
Heat oven to 350 degrees.
Line a deep, 9-inch baking dish with pie crust, prick with a fork and bake until lightly golden brown, about 15 minutes.
Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees.
In a large skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until crispy. Drain (reserving pan drippings) and set aside.
Add the sliced asparagus to the bacon drippings and cook until asparagus turns bright green, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels and mix with the bacon.
In a large bowl, combine the half-and-half, eggs, seasoned salt and seasoned pepper.
Whisk until frothy.
Layer half of the asparagus-bacon mixture into the baked crust. Pour half of the egg mixture over the bacon mixture. Sprinkle with half the cheese. Layer with the remaining asparagus-bacon mixture. Re-froth the batter and pour the rest into the shell. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top.
Bake at 325 degrees until the center is just set, 1 1 /2 to 2 hours.
Makes 8 to 12 servings.
Recipe adapted from Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking by Michael Ruhlman (Scribner, $27)Pancetta and Onion Quiche 1 (9-inch) homemade or refrigerated pie
crust 2 medium onions, chopped 1 cup chopped pancetta 4 ounces shredded cheddar cheese 4 ounces shredded mozzarella cheese 4 eggs 2 cups half-and-half 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 ounce shredded parmesan cheese
Heat oven to 425 degrees.
Press the crust into a 9-inch baking dish.
Prick the crust all over with a fork, then bake until golden, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees.
In a large saute pan over medium-high heat, cook the onions and pancetta until the onions are soft and translucent but not browned. Sprinkle the mixture on the bottom of the crust. Sprinkle the cheddar and mozzarella cheeses on top of the onions and meat. Set aside.
In a large bowl whisk together the eggs, half-andhalf and Worcestershire sauce.
Pour over the crust and sprinkle parmesan cheese on top.
Bake until set and browned a little on top, about 50 minutes.
Makes about 8 servings.
Recipe adapted from Jeanne Durnell (runner-up in the California Opera Association Big Quiche Bakeoff)
Prosciutto and Onion Frittata
3 tablespoons butter 1 cup thinly sliced onions 1 /8 teaspoon salt 1 1 /2 ounces prosciutto (about 3
thin slices), cut crosswise in
1 /4-inch slivers 6 eggs 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 /4 cup PLUS 2 tablespoons
grated parmesan cheese,
divided use
Heat broiler.
In a 10-inch oven-safe skillet, melt butter over medium-low heat. Add onion and salt, then cover and cook until onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Remove lid and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until light golden brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in prosciutto and cook 2 to 3 minutes more.
Whisk together eggs, parsley and 1 /4 cup of the parmesan cheese.
Add egg mixture to the pan with the onions and prosciutto and stir well to combine. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until the eggs have set, leaving only a top layer uncooked, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle remaining parmesan on top.
Place under the broiler until the top is browned and puffy, 1 to 2 minutes.
Serve hot or at room temperature. If you’re going to refrigerate the frittata, let it warm to room temperature before serving.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Recipe from Russ Parsons Shrimp and Basil Frittata 2 tablespoons butter 1 /2 cup thinly sliced green
onions (both green and
white parts) 1 /2 pound peeled small shrimp 6 eggs1 /4 teaspoon salt 8 to 10 leaves of basil, torn
into small pieces
Heat broiler.
Melt butter in a 10-inch ovensafe skillet over medium low heat. Add green onions and cook 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until they are firm, about 5 minutes.
While the onions and shrimp are cooking, beat the eggs, salt and basil with a fork in a mixing bowl just until the yolks and the white are thoroughly mixed.
Add the egg mixture to thepan with the onions and shrimp and stir well to combine. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the eggs have set, leaving only a top layer uncooked, about 10 minutes. Place under the broiler until the top is browned and puffy, 1 to 2 minutes.
Serve hot or at room temperature. If you’re going to refrigerate the frittata, let it warm to room temperature before serving.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Recipe from Russ Parsons Information for this article was contributed by Joan Obra of The Fresno Bee (Fresno, Calif.) and Russ Parsons of the Los Angeles Times.
Food, Pages 34 on 09/22/2010