LITTLE ROCK — A friend became confused meeting me at Lulav for dinner.
The downtown eatery still says “Lulav” on an exterior wall, as well as its awning, which describes itself as “A Modern Eatery” serving “California Mediterranean Cuisine.”
But then a banner and doormat call the place “The Italian Kitchen.”
So, what is it? Lulav? Or The Italian Kitchen?
It’s both.
The Italian Kitchen at Lulav, owned by J. Matt Lile III, is the latest reinvention of Lulav, which opened in 2004 in the historic Mathis Building with a kosher-inspired menu, soon converted to a traditional kitchen serving eclectic fare.
Now it’s a strictly Italian restaurant, with a one-page, all-day paper menu (the wine list, you ask? Flip the paper over) as accessible as its prices, with many selections in the $10-$12 range.
Not that you necessarily need a wine list at The Italian Kitchen, where a $15 wine table of assorted bottles of distributor odds and ends greets diners. It’s not only frugal to poke through the bottles, it’s fun.
Among the Fish Eye cabernets and Tisdale pinot noirs, we discovered a gem, the Villa Vallemaggiore Maremma Toscana Campostella.
Wines from the list range $6 to $12 per glass and $18 to $475 per bottle. Cocktails, including an Italian Margarita, cost $8. Those wanting a less brawny libation might try a frothy, flavored hand-mixed Italian soda ($3).
The two-part dining room - a dimly lighted setting with high ceilings, exposed brick, table and banquette seating and a geometric wall curtain - has an artsy yet cozy feel about it. Even cozier are the private dining rooms hidden behind said curtain. Service was satisfactory.
Starters ($8-$10) include salads, meat and cheese plates, bread with oil and vinegar and appetizers.
One standout was the Fresh Fried Artichokes ($8), salty artichoke hearts contained in a nicely seasoned, crisp coating, served with lemon garlic aioli. Another was the Mussels Arrabbiata ($8), shellfish in a skillet of sensational spicy and garlicky tomato sauce (and sausage, which we wish the menu would have specified; we were trying to be good Catholics on a Lenten Friday). It also came with four slices of bread to soak up extra sauce (so much for that good Catholics stuff).
Not as impressive was the focaccia with olive oil and balsamic vinegar ($8) available in four flavors: fig (which we ordered), blueberry, dark espresso and Sicilian lemon.The five slices of bread and slightly astringent dipping sauce struck us as something that should have been served complimentary with the meal.
Meat plates ($8) and cheese trays ($10) feature a choice of one selection (another $4 for additional selections). The price of $12 for what we ordered - a petite helping of prosciutto with four slices of Manchego, served with a fewapple slices, pistachio nuts and dried cranberries - seemed a bit steep, especially without any crackers or bread.
On the dinner menu (and, well, the lunch menu - they are the same) are pizza ($10); handmade pasta ($12; $3 to $10 to add protein including chicken, shrimp, tilapia or lobster); meat/seafood selections ($16);and chef specialties ($29).
The Italian Kitchen presents copious pasta portions, definitely too big for lunch. (May we suggest the restaurant offer half portions? A midday tab for two pasta dishes, add chicken, and focaccia was $42. That’s a lot of money - and a lot of food - for lunch.)
Still obsessed with the spirited arrabbiata sauce from the previous visit, one party member ordered the SpicyArrabbiata Penne for a fix. On the other end of the pasta spectrum was the plush and creamy Carbonara, thinner noodles with proscuitto, scallions, cracked pepper and truffle oil. Somewhere in between the two was the zesty Vodka & Pesto, fettuccine noodles with a Roma tomato and pink spicy cream sauce and capped with a dollop of pesto.
From the “carni” or “meat” menu, we selected the pleasing Pork Milanese, a breadedpork cutlet in a lively lemon caper cream sauce, served with a side of zucchini.
And from the chef specialties or “expensive” menu, we savored a memorable medium-rare Filet Mignon that deserved better than forgettable sides of fried garlic parmigiano potatoes and zucchini. Another star specialty was the savory Shrimp & Lobster Diavola, plenty of shellfish clumps in a spiced cream sauce with fettuccine noodles.
The Chef’s Fav pizza was our least fav dish. While we liked the thin crust base of the pizza sized for one or two, the marinara sauce, gorgonzola and arugula toppings blended into a result more bitter than just bitey. A sprinkling of salty pistachio nuts helped only so much. We accidentally left theleftovers in the restaurant and weren’t all that disappointed.
Desserts ($6) include creme brulee, berry panna cotta and - our shared choice - a traditional tiramisu at what turned out to be a very traditional Italian Kitchen … at Lulav.
The Italian
Kitchen at Lulav
Address: 220 W. Sixth St.,
Little Rock
Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Monday-Friday for lunch,
5-9 p.m. Monday-Thurs
day and 5-10 p.m. Fri
day-Saturday for dinner
Cuisine: Italian
Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V
Alcoholic beverages: Full
bar
Wheelchair accessible: Yes
Carryout: Yes
(501) 374-5100
lulaveatery.com
Weekend, Pages 27 on 03/07/2013