Expert tailoring top priority for black suit with trim cut

I just read your answer on black suits being “somewhat somber and not for everybody.” I have two questions: First, would you consider a black suit with a dotted-line pinstripe the same as a solid black suit? I have one and wear it like I do my gray suits, not just for funerals or faking black tie. Also, you said that black suits are for “in-shape” me; I always thought black was slimming, and it was good for me - toning down with my slight paunch. If it is not, why not? And are there shirts or ties that make it more appropriate?

A. Men’s clothing has many more subtleties than many realize and this is one example. I agree that a black dotted-line pinstriped suit (known as a black “beaded stripe”) can be treated the same as a very dark gray or solid black suit. As long as the stripes are not thick, it will look good with the same sort of accessories as a solid and carries with it pretty much the same restrictions.

As to your question about why not to wear a black suit if you are not in shape: On the one hand, yes, you are correct, we all look our slimmest when dressed in black. But as I mentioned previously, the tailoring on a black suit is important, more so than on a standard blue or gray suit. A black suit is, after all, making a statement - that you are an aware guy, one who is able to look in a mirror and see reality. I’m not saying that a man who is not in perfect shape cannot wear a black suit, but if he does, he must pay extra attention to the suit’s tailoring. It is essential that the jacket be well-tailored and fit perfectly. Do not skimp on any needed alterations. We all know that models look good in anything they wear, but the rest of us mere mortals must be obsessive about how our clothes are tailored, and this is even truer with a black suit.

When wearing a black suit, you don’t want to look like you are an old man or an undertaker. This is part of the reason that the cut is important; it should be trim, not an older, fuller cut. Designer styling makes you look up to date. Usually a single breasted cut with double vents is best - basically, a European cut. I would recommend a notch lapel. The traditional dresser would probably choose a notch lapel, but a more fashion-forward guy might prefer peak lapels. And, even though double-breasted jackets are coming back, I think for most men, it is better to buy a black suit in a classic single-breasted cut.

Remember, a black suit may not be right in every corporate setting or in the world of sales. Depending on the cut, it may be too severe and drab or just the opposite, too “fashiony.”

But one of its big advantages is it can be dressed up or down, making it versatile enough for many occasions.

You are smart to ask about the combinations with a black suit. Dressing it up or down with the shirts and ties you choose can change its tone. The dressiest look for standard social wear is wearing it with a white shirt and a dark tie (here, I’m not talking about its use as a substitute for black-tie wear). You can dress it down by choosing more informal accessories, making it less severe.

For a smart (neither too dressy nor too casual) combination, consider a shirt in solid light blue, soft pink, or even a new light purple.

Or you might go with a fine hairline stripe in blue or gray or purple to soften some of the severity. Self-assured guys can even pull off wearing a black shirt with a black suit for club wear or something “artsy.”

Most ties work, and blues especially. A light, but rich, blue tie looks great; so does a royal blue in a solid, a handsome blue and white stripe, or a silk knit. I don’t like a tie that is too traditional or Ivy League paired with a black suit.

That is to say, avoid small, neat foulard prints and also larger paisleys. Fabrics, too, should be compatible: silk, rather than wool or cotton or linen. Of course, the most dressed-down way to wear your black suit is to wear it with an open-at-the-neck shirt and no tie.

With a black suit, let the suit speak for itself. The look is very rich and clean. You only need a good haircut, a white pocket handkerchief, and a quality pair of well-shined shoes.

Send male fashion queries to: lois.fenton@prodigy.net