Eggplant is ideal vegetable to bridge the seasons

Eggplant is a versatile vegetable that can be cooked in many ways.
Eggplant is a versatile vegetable that can be cooked in many ways.

You hear a lot of talk from chefs, restaurant chains, food writers and food stores these days about the importance of cooking and serving fresh, seasonal ingredients. But walk through most supermarkets, and you might think that there’s only one perpetual season. Thanks to modern shipping and advanced agricultural techniques, you can find almost any vegetable or fruit you might want to cook and eat at any time of year.

Of course, there’s a difference between fresh, seasonal ingredients in general and those grown locally. Local, in-season ingredients — especially those found in farmers markets and produced by growers who follow sustainable practices that take care of the land and the planet — are likely to have the best flavor, texture and nutritional value you can find; they will also probably have the lowest carbon footprint.

Still, some ingredients do grow during more than one season, following Mother Nature’s own cycles rather than strictly adhering to the calendar pages. So you can enjoy them at their best for many months, unlike those available in narrower windows of time, such as springtime peas or early-summer cherries.

One of my favorite longer-range vegetables is eggplant, which you can find locally grown in many markets now. Eggplant begins approaching its peak of season in early summer and lingers well into autumn. That means you can enjoy eggplant in so many different ways: right now in robust, warming dishes like eggplant Parmesan, perfect for cooler spring weather; later, in the warm months, in dishes such as cold ratatouille or simply sliced, brushed with oil and quickly grilled; and finally, when the days grow shorter and the temperatures cool again, in all kinds of warming stews and soups.

To celebrate this versatile vegetable, I’d like to share with you one of my favorite recipes, Chinois-Style Roasted Eggplant Compote, a simple side that combines the oven-cooked and diced vegetable with stir-fried onions and bell peppers. Based on a longtime popular menu item from my Asian-fusion Chinois restaurant, it makes a great side with broiled, pan-fried or grilled chicken, lamb, beef, veal or seafood.

In the recipe as I give it here, the mixture is enjoyed at room temperature, but if you like, you could also dish up the eggplant hot during cooler weather.

As a bonus, you’ll also find a recipe for the main seasoning mix used with the

eggplant, which yields more than you’ll need for four servings but can also be used to flavor chicken, seafood or meat before cooking. You can also combine the mix with a sauce or lemon butter just before spooning it over food.

So, in the end, you’re actually getting two versatile recipes that you can go on savoring for months to come.

Chinois-Style Roasted Eggplant Compote

Makes about 2 cups, 4 servings

Ingredients:

1 pound Japanese eggplants (about 6 large)

2 tablespoons Asian-style toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon Chinois Seasoning Mix (recipe follows)

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 cup diced red onion, about 1/2 large

1/2 cup diced red bell pepper, about 1/2 medium

1/2 cup diced yellow bell pepper, about 1/2 medium

2 tablespoons diced green bell pepper, about 1/4 medium

1/2 bunch cilantro, leaves only, coarsely chopped to make 1/4 cup

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

With a sharp knife, trim and peel the eggplants. Cut them in half lengthwise, and arrange them cut side up on a baking tray. Drizzle and spread the sesame oil over the eggplants, and then sprinkle them evenly with the Chinois Seasoning Mix (recipe follows). Set aside, and leave the eggplants to marinate at room temperature for 1 hour.

Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Bake the eggplants in the heated oven until tender enough to pierce easily with a fork, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove them from the oven, and set aside to cool to room temperature.

One by one, transfer the eggplant halves to a cutting board, cutting each one with a sharp knife into 1/2-inch dice. Transfer the dice to a medium-sized mixing bowl.

In a wok, heat the peanut oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and red, yellow and green bell peppers. Stir-fry using a wok spatula or wooden spoon until al dente, tender but still slightly crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl to cool to room temperature.

Add the onion-and-pepper mixture to the bowl with the eggplant, and sprinkle in the cilantro and salt. Stir well, seasoning to taste with pepper.

Serve at room temperature.

CHINOIS SEASONING MIX

Makes about 1 cup

Ingredients:

5 ounces fresh ginger root, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

4 ounces peeled garlic (about 15 large cloves)

Stems of 2 green onions, minced

2 teaspoons Chinese pepper flakes or regular crushed red-pepper flakes

Directions:

Put the ginger and garlic in a blender. Pulse the machine on and off until coarsely, but evenly, chopped.

Use a rubber spatula to scrape out the mixture onto a cutting board. Continue chopping with a sharp knife until finely textured. Add the green onions and pepper flakes. Chop briefly, turning the mixture, until thoroughly combined.

Transfer the mixture to a covered nonreactive container. Refrigerate until needed. Use within 1 week.

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